I'M NOT A VET, BUT...
...I can still pass along some tips, things I've found out, my own advice based on what I've heard from other pet owners, animal lovers and what I've experienced myself. This includes health and well-being as well as common sense and seasonal tips. I've written a few things here at the top of the page, and then there are some links you can follow down...
It's no surprise that I get hit a lot with health and well-being issues.
Maybe you know something's "up" with Rover. It's great to be able to ask him Where does it hurt? and get an accurate answer.
That's pretty commonplace. They do know when something's up; the bugbear is they generally don't know What it is.
Well, that and sometimes you have to ask directly, dig a bit, etc., for them to notice there's anything wrong or have it occur to them to mention it. Many a time I have done most of the hour of a Consult and suddenly the dog who said when asked, even, that he felt totally fine, hale and healthy, says, "Oh by the way, you asked why I keep scratching under my left ear... it has been bugging me. There's something lumpy under there. I'm not upset about it, though - I forgot all about it."
You check and there it is! A little bumpie node, and off to the vet he goes!
And it's nothing, or it's cancer, or whatever.
Don't assume they know everything. Why do humans get blood work? Do breast self-exams? Get MRIs? Heck - pregnancy tests? True it is that animals are often excellent at knowing what's up with another animal (and sometimes a human). They can tell you about the other dog's respiratory inflamation, or the location of the cat's bumpies. And this with the other pets you think they don't like - yes, those animals, too.
But their own?
"Why is he itching under his left leg?" or "Why is he listless lately?" aren't necessarily answered in a cut-and-dried fashion. Commonly, the former is, "Because it itches"; the latter may end up being a detailed description of "how he feels". Please note that these descriptions actually have proven to have been quite valuable (including saving the lives of many pets). However, such a description will also not (necessarily) tell you if it's a parasite, cancer, Diabetes, effects of drinking tap water, a tired-out thyroid gland, some yucky thing they ate a little of a day and 1/2 ago in the yard, wrapping ribbon that they swallowed, a brain tumor, needing more minerals or B Vitamins or iron ... you get the idea. They don't know, and you may have decided that it falls upon you to "diagnose" or otherwise conclude what it all means, medically.
"He threw up! Why?!" Hey - maybe he's got hairballs. Doesn't matter if he's a long-haired cat or a short-haired cat: Yup, maybe he's got hairballs.
You want to do home diagnosing? You can get a question or two answered from your pet, via me, then interpret it however you interpret it, research things in books, publications, the net, friends and family, groups (animal organizations), make your conclusions on your own - and/or you can take then to the vet. OR any combination thereof, which is my preference. But the vet's the top authority here, and knows things you cannot know unless you are vet trained.
The vet vet vet. Yes to the vet, which also does not discount researching and understanding.
Betcha dimes to dozens that if asked, your cat won't have a clue that he's got hair balls and that that's why he just threw up. Sometimes we hear simply that he threw up "because he felt like it", over'n'out.
And in all sincerity and seriousness, just remember this stark fact: a pet can die just like THAT. They seem fine (or slightly under the weather); the next morning they're dead. Whatever they do or do not tell you via Aunt Julie can be the ticket to saving their life or can be completely disrelated. They've got their own ideas and interpretations about things. It can't hurt to ask! but don't overlook the fact that there are 24 hour veterinary facilities (expensive or not).
I guess you can tell I've heard a lot in my years....
So THAT all being said, let's continue on.....
Toxins chart ~ Includes plants, chemicals, etc which can be harmful or fatal for household pets. Right after the chart you'll see also a link to a huge list of non-toxic (to pets) plants.(Note this link to the Toxins Chart takes you to another page; return here when done)
including Why do cats (and dogs) eat grass and throw up?, Nursing (as in Your pet is a "nurse), Peeing notes, Alternative Health Care, Psychotrophic drugs and animals and more!
The Vet / Emergencies
Aunt Julie's the first one to tell you Take them to the vet!
I do not condone you substituting taking an animal to the vet with "animal communication". If he needs to go, you take him. If he just had a seizure, if he's very hot, if he's not eating, if his eyes are glazed, etc., call them right away. Then call me. We can talk with him on the way to the vet ~ all you need is a cell phone. Or a friend to come along who's got a cell phone you can use. Or not - but get him to the vet. Don't delay because "what he says might shed some light on something". He can't Talk a fever away. Or he can - but that's not our territory here. That'll happen as a byproduct, or it won't. Meanwhile your pet can die Snap just like that. I know, I've had too many folks contact me - existing as well as new clients - whose pet had seemed a little "off", they waited to take him to the vet as they wanted to schedule in with me or whatever (mind you, I hear about this after-the-fact), the next day the pet was dead or close. Sometimes the owner waits a few weeks but when it gets "bad" they take the pet to the vet and find out the cancer was not only there but it had spread. IF they did a Consult with Aunt Julie in the middle of that, and IF the pet mentioned not feeling too welll, perhaps they'd have gone to the vet. Sometimes in a Consult the pet doesn't even mention anything because it's not (at that time) too painful, and/or they're just happy to be able to chat with Mommy. Sometimes Mommy asks how they're feeling and they say, Sluggish and occasionally queasy. Mommy decides It must be the change in season, or, It must be their allergies.
Animals can change on a dime. REMEMBER what takes us decades can take a year or less with them, since one year's time for them is many at our rate. If you're starting to have lung cancer, how more advanced will it be in seven years? if you even make it that long, with the condition undetected until it's very advanced? So a dog might have a clean bill of health at his annual exam and six months later he's partway or well into cancer and you don't know it. Nor does he. Or he does. Or he knows "something's up" but same as us, he may not have a name for it and needs a doc visit and testing for an actual Dx (diagnosis).
Another good reason to keep in regular or periodic "check-in" comm with your little guys. Utilize Aunt Julie liberally!
You cannot always go by what they say, or don't say. YOU know them. A change in health, demeanor, outlook, mood, peeing habits, pooping habits, eyes, ears, nose, their smell, their shedding or not, weight, this type of thing, needs to be investigated and understood. IF it's a "normal abnomality" for their species, breed, gender, age, environmental influence, time of year, allergy level, already established health level, so be it, but at least establish these guidelines with your vet early on, and definitely when there seems to be a marked or noteworthy change.
YES use me to ask them. Do regular check-in's with them anyway just to say Hi, see what they might like to say or catch up on, and ask them how they're feeling health and well-being wise.
Age issues seem obvious...but it's not necessarily uncommon for youngsters to have health issues gone otherwise undetected. A classic example is a cat who was only about a year old who had a severe cancer raging and it was only because of a talk with Aunt Julie that the owners knew where to tell the vet to check. We heard about the location of the bad pain...the vet found the cancer.
What about their answers? The accuracy of their data?
Think child. Think a child with a temperature and you ask, How are you? and they say Mmmm kinda hot. Do they have a touch of the flu, or do they have a major life-threatening illness coming on? Your child won't know any more than your pet might.
They know it hurts. Or, it hurts but doesn't bother them (this is also quite common, and on the order of how you or I can get through life with this or that chronic pain, or go to work with a headache, and we kind of put it out of our minds unless our attention gets directed to it.) But they don't necessarily know if it's life-threatening, an indicator of an illness, or not something that's just "going on with them" (short and fun-lovin' attention spans).
Another example: I've gotten quite a lot of requests to try and figure out why a pet throws up, or throws up a lot. We dig and dig and get what their ideas are on it, but I always want to know that you've contacted your vet and done whatever they ask or require. You are certainly welcome to talk with your pet with Aunt Julie concurrently, that is, you make an appointment for Weds - fine, we can talk on Tuesday with your pet! Now, if the talk doesn't unearth something which "fixes" things, it still needs to get sorted out. The animal can have an ailment and it makes their stomach feel badly so they "feel" nervous (or whatever). You should rule out any one of many intestinal disorders including chronic inflammatory bowel disease, parasites, food allergy, lymphosarcoma (malignant cancer) or hairballs. With hairballs, they may simply need more frequent grooming, along with an oral lubricant to move the swallowed hair through their intestines. Ask your vet about hairball remedies. You're smart to take vomiting seriously.
(Yes, beings are perceptive and some do know what's wrong with their body, or what's up with their mind which is causing their body to feel badly. I just don't depend on that nor necessarily (depending....) pay it much heed when it comes to physical matters. Take them to the vet; that's their territory and domain and specialty.)
Also, know your emergency vet locations, phone numbers, hours, and so on. Have the Pet Poison hotline numbers posted and your current credit card info handy including up-to-date expiration date and the code from the back of the card. Um...make sure there's room on it, too! The one time you might need to call, you don't want to scramble for "which charge card still has some room on it" while your dog lays there convulsing for perhaps what may needlessly turn out to be the last 5, 10 or 15 minutes of his life.
Have vet info programmed into your cell phone and written into your address book. Know where they are. If you're on the road with your pet and something happens - what are you going to do? Do you know? Does the other person who is driving them around or otherwise transporting or being responsible for them? (e.g. friend taking them to a dog park. Dog walker. Goin' up the street for a quick errand with Grandma in her car.)
Where DOES Pet Communication fit in?
Once again I say, YES contact me. We can ask them how they are feeling. When it started. How they feel since taking The Medicine. What seems to make things better. Who they'd like to see, or not, while they're not feeling well. Their questions, confusion, ideas, thoughts and requests regarding ailing and death. You name it. It's no different than you'd want someone to talk with you when you're not feeling well, to any degree (taking into account you and I take for granted subjects such as life, death, healthcare, euthanasia, longevity, etc. They don't, so things need to be asked.)
Just - don't neglect to take them to the skilled, medically versed, caring, conscientious, observant and knowledgeable About Your Pet's BODY, the veterinarian. Sure, sure - I'm also the first one to remind you to Do your independent research for more info and second opinions, on the net and/or with other vets. Don't focus only on mainstream: check out an "alternative", holistic, natural, vet, OR, don't focus only on the "alternative", holistic, natural vet, check out the mainstream vet. Don't mix what Susie tells you is the correct herb for "healing". Did you know Some Things Don't Mix? I recently had surgery. I found out Surprise! DON'T take echinacea 10 days before (or Vitamin E) (as well as some other doozies). Whoops! I had just started an echinacea tea regimen the night before I found this out (at the surgeon's office: I went there for a pre-op physical and indoctrination about, well, 10 days prior to the surgery)! No kidding - this little story really happened. I asked why, since echinacea's so valuable for healing, health, whatever. They said it can mess with the anesthesia. Well, seeing tha tI wasn't too interested in 1. dying on the table or 2. waking up on the table, whatever "messing with the anesthesia"might hold in store for me, I pushed aside all the "vital info" that echinacea's important, healing, this and that, and um - stopped drinking that tea. So it's a good idea to research Home Remedies and so on.
Just the other day I had someone I did not know email me about their cat, saying any advice on how to get their car to the vet would be greatly appreciated. The cat hadn't been acting like himself for the last two days. He was sleeping a lot, didn't have an appetite and was making little coughing sounds once in awhile. He didn't want to go outside and run the streets.
What could I say? Get him to the vet, hell or high water. I don't know this fellow (or his human owner) from anyone and this wasn't something a Communicator could "handle". Well, at least this person was asking for advice on how to get the cat to the vet (this being a very difficult venture, in this particular case), he at least wasn't trying to get me to interpret, "know" something, diagnose, woo-woo the ailment away, reassure him that it was okay that he skipped the vet cuz his finances were in a bind, blah blah.
I was rather insistent that this cat get taken to the vet. I also went over in depth what I'm "here for" and the benefits of Animal Communication, and the overlapping utilizations in a case like this. But in this case, as well, THE first and foremost and indicated Very Next Step was TAKE HIM TO THE VET no matter how you get him there, if you cannot get a vet to come to you (sometimes this is a possibility.
Anywho, I later received this email (edited for privacy): "Thank you for your prompt and courteous reply. It was shortly after sending you my questions concerning B- when I realized he was staggering when he walked and had great difficulty just trying to jump up or down off his couch. Like he was drunk. .. The vet diagnosed severe ear infection (which in hindsight I thought he was just scratching a flea), gave B- an injection of cortisone, gave ear drops and pregasone (sic). The vet said nothing about his wheezing, which is my fault for not getting a follow-up from the vet after instructions concerning the ear infection...just told me if he didn't get his appetite back to return in a few days, or else ten days. The vet also informed me that it was possible that B- might not make a full recovery.
We came home and ... I didn't see B- all day...although tried looking and calling for him, I figured he was just traumatized and sleeping under a bed or behind the couch. We found him tonight hidng under the headboard."
Another email I received a day later:
"Just wanted to let you know that 15 min ago B- got off the couch and went to a plate of soft cat food a (friend) brought over this morning! She had diluted his med in the gravy and he slurped that up and finished off the food, went outside taking care of business now is resting again!
I truly appreciate you being there...and you can bet if he even so much as sneezes once...I'm headin' to your website!"
Yay! Kitty was on the mend, thanks to the miracles of modern medicine. Hopefully he'll recover fully and all will be well.
And funny, I had pushed this cat owner regarding taking B- to the vet and made quite clear the distinction between what one wuld use a Communicator for, and when the vet's in order. YES they can overlap but...well, you know what I'm trying to say by now. Still, you can tell from the last sentence that this happy camper still felt that I was the one to contact when something was ailing Kitty.
It's fine with me to contact me right away. It's smart - perhaps we can get some data from your pet, if we do a Consult and actually talk with them. But hey, think about that above example. Don't neglect the vet. Your pet can DIE and JUST LIKE THAT. That fast. Overnight. They in the mail will go out of their way to not show you how badly they're feeling. Don't try to "psycho-analyze" it. That's what they DO. They're ANIMALS and this is what's "correct" and "workable" and "survival" in the Animal Kingdom, of which they are members and only guests living, co-existing within, the Human World as we have defined it.
And don't forget Aunt Julie is more than willing and able to talk with you/your pet at any time about these issues, concerns, and so on, YES, including getting your pet's "take" on things, location of pain, what it feels like, this type of thing, so (1) they can Be Heard (!!!), (2) you've got their data cuz guess who lives in their body?, and (3) you can do a better Human job of assessing what's up with them to better orchestrate their healthy lives. Just - don't neglect the vet angle of things.
Poison Control Center telephone numbers
I know of three. Info updated as of 2007.
Please confirm the info out for yourself before there's an emegency!
The first is "the" National Poison Control Center, is free, and is for humans but I called them and talked to the lady who answered and she said that they do get animal-related calls and WILL try to help and/or refer if need be. It's a toll-free number which per her routes to whichever location is nearest you. That is, I called it and got a hospital in Tampa; I live in Clearwater which is a suburb of Tampa. If you live in California and call it, you will get some other location. No matter - it's the same phone number for you, is toll-free, and the service is free. The number is 800-222-1222.
The other two numbers I have cost money. There's a recording at first. You need to have a charge card handy. I recommend you make a refrigerator sign with all relevant info - an emergency's an emergency and not the time to poking around looking for your charge card or "what's the 3 digit code?" or "which card's got room on it?" etc.
Keep the info up to date whenever you get a new or updated charge card, and call the numbers to confirm their accuracy once in awhile (like when you change your smoke alarm battery). I called them recently and found out that 2 of them I had on my sign were no longer doing it!
The second 1-888-426-4435 ASPCA. $55 VISA, MC, Amex, Discover
The third 1-888-232-8870 Northshore. $55 VISA, MC, Amex, Discover. Note, it's the same service as number above, I could tell by the recording
St. Huberts'and Pet Place's pet poison services are no longer available.
(My information last checked Mar '06. Please check the info yourself before you "need" to know it! Alert me of any updates, too - much appreciated!)
FIRST AID NOTE
HAVE A PET FIRST AID KIT ON HAND.
Idea: Look for one. Look on the net, at your pet supplies store, etc. You can buy one and add to it.Nice, sturdy container with some room to add things (or buy one and use your own, larger container so you can add, oh, say, a blanket or the like).
Cater it to canines, felines, or both (medicines, pain killers, ointments etc which can only be ingested by one and not the other must be labeled as such - Okay for Rover and NOT for Fluffy....Okay for Fluffy and NOT for Rover...Okay for both Fluffy and Rover). For more unusual, exotic or not dog-cat compatible species (bird, iguana etc) perhaps have a separate kit.
There are links on the net which will advise you on things to put in your own kit, and there are links to buy Pet First Aid Kits. Add items to the kits as you see fit. For example, I put a muzzle in there and one of those little supermarket mini-books you see at the checkout stand on Pet First Aid in there. The Red Cross has a pet First Aid book. Their book includes illnesses as well as injuries, and happens to include information about what to put in a Pet First Aid kit. I bought one of those and put that in there as well.
Add in current paperwork on your pets. make a little folder and enclose it in a plastic envelope. Have a xerox of their rabies/county license and a printout from your vet of their records (my vet does a computer printout which reflects their "account" which lists it all anyway, so I don't have to have a xerox of their chart), and any write-up about how to take care of your pet(s). For me, I keep this up-to-date in my computer and it contains things like, If you need to pick Fox up, be careful of his underarm areas, they're very sensitive and if you get your thumb in there, or pull him that way, he'll start screaming. Quirks. Feeding tips. This type of thing. And medical conditions, ailments, key data that only you know and tend to take for granted! Think in terms of, you're gone, out of the picture, injured, dead, separated even if temporarily from your babies....how does someone else do the best job they can to "be you" in physical respects, for you babies? NO ONE is you, but all you have to do is take a minute or two to visualize someone else handling your cat, picking up your dog, putting food down for them, talking with them, choosing the food or kitty litter or whatever - especially the wrong thing (the type of thing where you'd be going No!!!! don't do that! He's scared of those!), and that's the stuff you jot down in your How to Take Care of Rover and Fluffy document.
Stick that in the envelope as well. A few bucks can't hurt, either; over time, toss some $10's or $20's in there or more, depending on your resources. The day comes you have to open that envelope, this might come in really handy.
Keep these papers up-to-date by, oh, say perhaps reviewing them when you change the batteries in your smoke detectors, or write a note on your calendar every ?? 6 months ahead to do so; also, review them before a trip (you go and someone else is watching the pets, or, you go and take the pets with you, either way!), before hurricane or tornado weather, etc.
Double-check the contents with your vet as a last action, then put the kit in an easy to access place. Don't forget to figure out who else might need to know of its existence and inform them.
You can learn how to do CPR and other emergency procedures on pets. Your vet, the ASPCA, Red Cross, etc., will help you either in person or with referrals to where and how you can learn.
Read up on and ask your vet about ailments for your pet's breed. If your type of dog is susceptible to seizures,for example, know what to do when they have one. If they've never had one, perhaps they never will. But what if they do, out of the blue one day 6 years from now? Try to know about this beforehand. I remember the first time Fox my dog started having weird choking-type hackey gug-gug breathing. Turns out his breed (he's part Pommie) can have a "collapsing trachea". The vet made sure I knew that this is very frightening to owners, it sounds like he's choking to death, etc.....but he's not, and (normally) he's not in real danger, actually. And sure enough, Fox never has been in actual danger from it; he doesn't like it when this occurs, but he's not in danger. If I had not researched this a bit, I never would have known this and would not know what to do (or not do) the rare times it happens (most of which I accidentally caused by pressing on his chest when we were playing until I figured out what was up). I have to be careful when picking him up, playing with him and so on to not press underneath his neck area or I'll accidentally activate this mechanism in him.
Following is an excerpt from an article which goes over some things to look for with cats (or dogs, even), some of which get easily overlooked but which are signs that they may need to go to the vet.
People often explain their preference for cats by pointing out that, compared to dogs, cats are quieter, more independent and make less demands on their owners. But the obverse of this low-maintenance ``advantage'' is that a sick cat is unlikely to exhibit any noticeable symptoms, especially during the early stages of an illness.
Vets concede that they often have major headaches trying to work out the cause of a feline ailment. And, to make matters worse, because cats are so self-sufficient, their owners often have difficulty providing the vet with detailed information on the circumstances surrounding the onset and progress of an illness. Many people simply don't have a clue about what their pet has been up to, especially if the cat is allowed to come and go freely. And many are not sufficiently informed about animal behaviour to notice the tell-tale signs of incipient health problems.
Sometimes, a physical check-up and laboratory tests are not enough to yield an accurate diagnosis; in fact, they can often be a total waste of time and money. But owners who regularly monitor their pet's general state of health are much more likely to spot a problem before it becomes serious.
To be able to detect if something is wrong with your animal you must learn to recognise the clinical signs of some common feline illnesses. Basic abnormalities include vomiting, diarrhoea, coughing, sneezing and discharges from the eyes, ears and nose. Some conditions also cause bleeding from the nose, mouth, rectum and the corner of the eye. The vomit from a sick cat normally comprises shreds of food, yellow gastric juice and frothy white saliva. It will be extremely helpful for diagnosis purposes if the owner can inform the vet of the frequency with which the animal has been vomiting and how long before, or after, a meal this usually occurs.
Another symptom that points to an incipient health problem _ but which can be notoriously difficult to detect _ is lassitude, a decline in the cat's normal level of physical activity or playfulness. Unfortunately, this will be harder to spot in animals of a quiet or indolent disposition. In the latter case, an early warning sign is a perceptible change in the cat's regular routine: Is your pet licking and grooming itself less frequently than usual? Does it appear indifferent to its environment or its favourite toys? One thing to check for here is paleness of the gums. If your cat's gums turn white it could be a indication of severe anaemia; waste no time in getting the animal to a vet.
A sick cat will often have a poor appetite, or refuse to eat at all. In animals, as in humans, weight loss is a good indicator of deteriorating health. It's a good idea to weigh your cat on a weekly basis. The easiest way to do this is to pick up your pet, stand on a weighing scales and then subtract your own weight from the total. Note down the figure and if you notice a drop of 10 percent or more between one week and the next, start looking for other signs of abnormality.
Conscientious cat owners will, of course, have vaccinated their pets against contagious diseases and common parasites but some forget that annual booster shots are also required to maintain the maximum level of protection.
If your cat has not defecated for three consecutive days, it is suffering from constipation. And if this is not treated the animal could eventually develop anorexia and die of a condition called megacolon. If it hasn't urinated for more than 24 hours, this could be a sign of a urinary-tract disorder or kidney disease. Faeces containing a lot of hair is a bad sign, too; the cat may have a fur ball in its intestinal tract and this could eventually prevent the evacuation of solid waste.
Fluid leaking from the vagina could indicate an infection in the reproductive system or the urinary tract. Plaque can sometimes block the urinary tracts of neutered tom-cats. If you notice that the animal is having difficulty urinating, consult a vet immediately.
PLANT EATING: Any plant material ingested by an animal (as when cats and dogs ingest lawn grass) may produce symptoms of vomiting, diarrhea, depression, or a combination of all three. These symptoms are generally mild, self-limiting, and often don't require veterinary treatment. If symptoms persist, however, immediately take your pet to the veterinarian.
So, keep your eyes peeled and monitor your pet's behaviour. Bear in mind that early diagnosis of a health problem can make medical treatment easier and improve the chances of a rapid and complete recovery.
When it comes to our own health, we human beings are aware that prevention is always better than cure. And that advice ap
Applies equally to the animals with which we choose to share our lives. So, all you cat-owners out there: Be vigilant!
PLEASE ALSO READ
The Veterinarian's Oath
"Being admitted to the profession of veterinary medicine, I solemnly swear to use my scientific knowledge and skills for the benefit of society through the protection of animal health, the relief of animal suffering, the conservation of animal resources, the promotion of public health, and the advancement of medical knowledge.
"I will practice my profession conscientiously, with dignity, and in keeping with the principles of veterinary medical ethics.
"I accept as a lifelong obligation the continual improvement of my professional knowledge and competence."
(Adopted by the House of Delegates, July 1969, amended by the Executive Board, November 1999)
I love my vet. He's the greatest vet in the world. If you don't feel that way about your vet, sort it out or change vets!
I also do my own research, reading, net searches, get second opinions, etc. (Ironicaly, that's also by the way one of the reasons I love my vet so much! I keep finding out how good he is.)
Also remember: If anything I say goes against what you've read or heard or you're just not sure, cross-check it with your vet, OK?
|HEALTH & SAFETY ANNOUNCEMENTS
My site kept getting bigger and bigger and bigger with my postings of ASPCA News Alerts, health alerts and the like. Yikes! I decided to streamline things and now have most of that on this page, including a link to the Table I compiled of substances known or thought to be toxic to dogs and cats which I compiled.
I encourage you to research health, poisons, toxins, well-care, medical and similar items yourself. Talk to your vet, other vets, consult reputable publications, subscribe to the ASPCA's and other organizations' email newsletters (such as the "ASPCA News Alert, The weekly newsletter of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals"), and do liberal internet search engine searches (e.g. type in " grapes dog " to see what links come up regarding the subject of dogs ingesting grapes, raisins, and the like).
May 17th, 2010
RE: Sergents / Problems with SentryPro XFC flea and tick medication
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT RESCUE REMEDY PRODUCTS
Click here (then come back to this page if desired using Back button on your browser or at the bottom of my site's page)
If all of your precautions fail and you believe that your pet has been poisoned, contact your veterinarian or emergency veterinary service immediately. Signs of poisoning include listlessness, abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhea, muscle tremors, lack of coordination, and fever.
Put a mini-poster on your fridge with current pet poison telephone numbers and your charge card information (including expiration dates and the code on the back). You are NOT going to want to go hunting around for this if your pet's convulsing and if the poison control place charges over the phone (which they do, except for one I recently stumbled upon). Include all the local vet's telephone numbers, directions how to get there if they're not your usual vet, their hours, etc.
Periodically call the poison control numbers to make sure they're up-to-date (and your charge card info), perhaps when you change your smoke alarm batteries, change your clocks for Daylight Savings, file a quarterly tax return, whatever.
Weather, Seasonal and Holiday Tips
YES some of these are "obvious".
I figure they can't be overstated. Better safe than sorry!
The ASPCA put it best when referring to cocoa mulch (the bold part is the wording I love) but the following of course applies to any similar circumstance:
"One key point to remember is that some dogs, particularly those with indiscriminate eating habits, can be attracted to any organic matter. Therefore, it is important that your dog not be left unsupervised or allowed in areas where such materials are being used."
NOTE Most tips are compiled from lists issued by the ASPCA, with other ones I may have picked up from various sites, newsletters and the like, woven in.
Feel free to email me with any additional ideas, suggestions and tips you're interested in seeing in this area of my site.
1. HOT WEATHER
HOT WEATHER PET TIPS
Don't forget to modify for YOUR pet's life, body, environment etc as needed.
Dogs and cats can suffer from the same problems that humans do, such as overheating, dehydration and even sunburn. By taking some simple precautions, you can celebrate the season and keep your pets happy and healthy.
1. A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must; add to that a test for heartworm, if your dog isn't on year-round preventive medication. Do parasites bug your animal companions? Ask your doctor to recommend a safe, effective flea and tick control program.
2. Never leave your pet alone in a vehicle—hyperthermia can be fatal. Even with the windows open, a parked automobile can quickly become a furnace in no time. Parking in the shade offers little protection, as the sun shifts during the day.
3. Always carry a gallon thermos filled with cold, fresh water when traveling with your pet. Aunt Julie's note: I take a plastic container with a lid and fill it halfway with RO (reverse osmosis) water right from the RO spiget at my sink (or bottled water if that's what's handy). I freeze this and the day we're, say, going to the dog park or for a ride somewhere and Fox gets to come along, I take it out about a half an hour before we're leaving. I also bring a bottle of chilled water to use to add to the icy water as he drinks it. I don't drive, due to my bad back, and Fox and I are always in the back seat together and it's not difficult for me to open the plastic container and offer him laps of cold water when the car is stopped. Sometimes he refuses it so I just put it on my finger and once he licks, he's started. (They do that sometimes; also, a classic symptom of dehydration is not drinking/not being thirsty, so it's good to get them started.). If not go, and it's particularly hot, I just let him keep licking more and more off of my finger, if that's all he's into doing. I don't split hairs over "how I think it should be" and "why doesn't he just drink it?" blah blah. When we get home, I always rinse the container and its lid right out with hot water, rinse with more RO water and then refill halfway, close, and pop it back into the freezer. This way germs are cleansed (as opposed to frozen and preserved), and also I never am caught without this container of frozen water. In a pinch, while on the road fast food places will often give (or sell -sigh) you a "cup of ice water for my dog". For whatever reason, Fox likes Wendys' water the best and always has, regardless of which Wendys it is. He laps it up readily, whereas he's more conservative with the others such as MacDonalds, Taco Bell, etc. But hey - all will do when he's overheating!
4. The right time for playtime is in the cool of the early morning or evening, but never after a meal or when the weather is humid.
5. Street smarts: When the temperature is very high, don’t let your dog standing on hot asphalt. I see people do this all the time, not noticing their dog is stepping their feet up up up or they're walking in circles or the like - ow! A dog's body can heat up quickly, and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum. Julie's note: This one's very real to me, as Fox has extremely heat-sensitive paw pads. It's easy to get caught up in other things such as removing things from the car, schlepping your stuff, whatever, and forget to look down and notice the signs. Above and beyond being cautious about this anyway, just figure if you've seen it once, it's always that way with their paws (even if they don't display it as much as other times). Also do NOT fall into the Your Viewpoint thing of, It's not that hot! You aren't the one going barefoot, your dog is. Sometimes when you get home and park it can be slightly overcast from a cloud cover. That doesn't mean the the ground isn't still burning hot (cement and asphalt hold heat). Dogs can tell, often before they step down onto it. If they do venture out of the car and then give you a sign it's too hot, get them off of there! Pick them up right away if you have to! (if you can) Fox's signs include sitting right down then standing up, speeding up and walking in long arcs trying to get to some shady area,walking in circles and one of the last before I can get to him and grab him is walking erratically with straight up-and-down motions like his feet are stuck in glue. It's very fast, that is, he can start walking on hot pavement and he's displaying one or more of these before I can get to him and I react fast. Of course, I move slowly as my back's bad, but that's part of the reason I'm even more cautious about letting him venture out on hot cement in the first place. Sometimes my mom comes around and lifts him out of my arms from the back seat and carries him to the nearest shady spot, because we've got an assigned parking spot and he'll have to walk across the rest of the entire hot parking lot to get to the actual building, after we've parked.
6. A day at the beach is a no-no, unless you can guarantee a shaded spot and plenty of fresh water for your companion. Salty dogs should be rinsed off after a dip in the ocean.
7. Provide fresh water and plenty of shade for animals kept outdoors; a properly constructed doghouse serves best. Bring your dog or cat inside during the heat of the day to rest in a cool part of the house. sonme folks have fans, air conditioners, and the like. Safety first! with these types of appliances, but of course, when done right, this type of thing can be quite beneficial for "outdoor dogs".
8. Some animals will need extra care in hot weather, especially those who are elderly and overweight or have heart or lung disease. Certain breeds of dogs, including brachycephalic or snub-nosed dogs such as bulldogs, Pekingese, pugs, Boston terriers, Lhasa apsos and shih tzus, as well as those with heart or lung diseases, should be kept cool in air-conditioned rooms as much as possible. These breeds need extra attention on hot days. If your pet is showing signs of heatstroke or exhaustion, take him to your veterinarian immediately.
9. When walking your dog, steer clear of areas that you suspect have been sprayed with insecticides or other chemicals. And please be alert for coolant or other automotive fluid leaking from your vehicle. Animals are attracted to the sweet taste, and ingesting just a small amount can be fatal. Call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 if you suspect that your animal has been poisoned.
10. Good grooming can stave off summer skin problems, especially for dogs with heavy coats. Shaving the hair to a one-inch length—never down to the skin, please, which robs Rover of protection from the sun—helps prevent overheating. Cats should be brushed often.
Bonus tip: Please make sure that there are no open, unscreened windows or doors in your home through which animals can fall or jump. Tell visitors and pet sitters and remind other family members.
Avoiding Canine Heatstroke
With summer temperatures soaring, it's important to recognize the signs of heatstroke in dogs and take steps to prevent your furry friend from overheating. Provide plenty of fresh, clean water and a shaded area while your friend is outdoors, and consider sunscreen for lighter-nosed dogs. Avoid heavy exercise or play in the heat of the day.
A dog's normal body temperature is between 101 and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Dogs keep cool naturally by panting. If your dog shows signs of rapid breathing, dry mouth and nose, a rapid heart rate, red or dull, grayish-pink gums, weakness, dizziness or vomiting, it's time to seek veterinary help immediately. While you're on the way, lower his temperature by wetting him thoroughly with cool water, and keep a fan on him if you can.
Also common in hot weather:
- Animal toxins—toads, insects, spiders, snakes and scorpions
- Blue-green algae in ponds
- Citronella candles
- Cocoa mulch
- Compost piles and fertilizers
- Flea products
- Outdoor plants and plant bulbs
- Swimming-pool treatment supplies
I got this email as is ~ Julie
"Hi all--- this is a crosspost with permission (noted in the text). It was written for the performance dog, working under hot weather conditions in field, or ring. Nonetheless, it is simply good doggie first aid information everyone can keep close by!
This is an article that I wrote a few years ago, checked it over it should still be pretty accurate. Feel free to cross post, use in club newsletters, etc, without any further permission.
Avoiding Heat Related Injuries in Dogs
Nate Baxter DVM
The first thing that needs to be understood is that dogs and people are different enough that most of the info cannot cross lines. I do not profess to know what the appropriate procedures for people other than what I learned in first aid.
Dogs do not lose enough electrolytes thru exercise to make a difference, but if the dog gets truly into heat stroke the physiology changes will make them necessary. BUT oral replacement at that point is futile, they need IV and lots of it.
Cooling: Evaporative cooling is the most efficient means of cooling. However, in a muggy environment, the moisture will not evaporate so cooling does not happen well. I cool with the coldest water I can find and will use ice depending on the situation. The best way is to run water over the dog, so there is always fresh water in contact. When you immerse a dog in a tub, the water trapped in the hair coat will get warm next to the dog, and act as an insulator against the cool water and cooling stops. If you can run water over the dog and place it in front of a fan that is the best. Misting the dog with water will only help if you are in a dry environment or in front of a fan. Just getting the dog wet is not the point, you want the water to be cool itself, or to evaporate.For MOST situations all you will need to do is get the dog in a cooler environment, ie shade, or in the cab of the truck with the air conditioning on (driving around so the truck does not overheat and the AC is more efficient).
Up to a couple of years ago, I was very concerned about my dogs getting too hot in the back of my black pickup with a black cap. New white truck fixed a lot of that problem. When I had one dog I just pulled the wire crate out of the car and put it in some shade and hopefully a breeze. But having 2 dogs and running from one stake to another, that was not feasible. So I built a platform to put the wire crates on, this raises the dog up in the truck box where the air flow is better. Then I placed a 3 speed box fan in front blowing on the dogs with a foot of space to allow better airflow. I purchased a power inverter that connects to the battery and allows the 3 speed fan to run from the truck power. It has an automatic feature that prevents it from draining the battery. When I turned that fan on medium I would find that the dogs where asleep, breathing slowly and appeared very relaxed and comfortable in a matter of 20 minutes or less, even on very hot muggy days.
Alcohol: I do carry it for emergiencies. It is very effective at cooling due to the rapid evaporation. It should be used when other methods are not working. You should be on your way to the veterinarian before you get to this point. We recommend using rubbing alcohol, which is isopropyl alcohol, not ethyl, for those of you not aware. So do not try to drink it. Alcohol should be used on the pads and lower feet area where there is little more than skin and blood vessels over the bones. Use a little bit and let it evaporate, you can use too much as some is absorbed through the skin. There are concerns about toxicity, but you have to get the temperature down.UPDATE NOTE-alcohol has fallen out of favor with ER specialists, use it only as a last ditch effort if nothing else works.
I purchased those cooling pads, but found that the dogs would not lay on them. I would hold them on the back of a dog that just worked to get a quick cool, but have not use them for years. I also bought a pair of battery operated fans but found them pretty useless. Spend your money on the power inverter and get a real fan.
Watching temperature: If you feel your dog is in danger of heat injury, check its temp and write it down. Keep checking the temp every 3 minutes. I recommend to get a "rectal glass thermometer. The digital ones from the drug store I have found to be very unreliable, Don't forget to shake it down completely each time, sounds silly, but when are worried about your companion, things tend to get mixed up.
This is VERY IMPORTANT**once the temp STARTS to drop, STOP ALL COOLING EFFORTS. The cooling process will continue even though you have stopped. If the temp starts at 106.5, and then next time it drops to 105.5, stop cooling the dog, dry it off, and continue monitoring. You will be amazed how it continues to go down. If you do not stop until the temp is 102, the temp will drop way too low. I cannot emphasis this point enough.
When the dog is so heated that it is panting severely, only let it have a few laps of water. Water in the stomach does not cool the dog, you just need to keep the mouth wet so the panting is more effective. Do not worry about hydration until the temp has started down. A dog panting heavily taking in large amounts of water is a risk of bloat. Due to the heavy panting they will swallow air, mixed with a large amount of water they can bloat. Once the temp is going down and panting has slowed to more normal panting then allow water. The dog will rehydrate it self after temp is normal. If the dog has a serious problem and even though you have gotten the temp normal, get the dog to a vet, as it can still need IV fluids and some medication.
Also, a case of heat stroke can induce a case of hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (not parvo), with a ton of very bloody diarrhea and a lot of fluid and electrolyte loss. These cases need aggressive treatment.The best method of treatment is prevention. Learn to watch your dog, and see the changes in the size of the tongue, and how quickly it goes down. Learn your dogs response to the different environments, and be careful when you head south for an early season hunt test or trial. I have been to Nashville at the end of May, only 5 hours away, but the difference in temp and humidity did effect the dogs as they were used to more spring weather in Ohio. Try different things in training to help the dog cool and learn what works better.
Another very important point=> Do not swim your hot dog to cool it then put in put in a box/tight crate. Remember, evaporation can not take place in a tight space, and the box will turn into a sauna and you will cook your dog. Carry a stake out chain, and let the dog cool and dry before putting it up.I know this is a bit long, but hopefully this is easy to understand and helps provide some useful information.Remember: Prevention, learn your dog. It is worth the time and effort.
Nate Baxter, DVM, Lebanon, OH"
My added notes: Make sure they drink water when they need to! Like humans, animals can have the odd habit of not drinking when they need it most (also a symptom of dehydration - in humans as well!). Take the time to encourage them to drink good, clean, fresh water (preferably not tap water for reasons all too obvious to us in this day and age). The best water I've personally found for pets, by the way, is Penta Hydrate water. There's a link to their site on my Good Links page. Also a battery operated fan for pets is handy for power outtages during the hot weather! (see Good Links page)
And it has come to my attention that not everyone knows it is not necessarily sufficient to keep car windows or even doors open when leaving an animal in a vehicle. Many older texts and schools of thought suggest that it's fine "if the car windows are open", but this is not enough to ensure their safety. Regardless of time of year, animals can easily overheat rapidly even with vehicle windows (or doors) open. If at all possible, don't leave the animal in the vehicle at all in hot weather!
2. COLD WEATHER
COLD WEATHER PET TIPS
Don't forget to modify for YOUR pet's life, body, environment etc as needed.
When the weather outside turns cold, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals reminds you to think about your pet's safety and recommends the following guidelines to protect your companion animal:
Keep your cats inside. Outdoor cats can freeze, become lost or stolen, injured or killed.
During the winter, outdoor cats sometimes choose to sleep under the hoods of cars, where it is warmer. Before starting your car, you should bang loudly on the hood and wait a few seconds to give the cat a chance to escape.
Never let your dog off its leash on snow or ice, especially during a snowstorm. Dogs frequently lose their scent in snow and ice and can easily become lost. More dogs are lost in the winter than in any other season, so make sure they always wear ID tags.
Products that melt ice may contain chemicals that can be irritating to skin and gastrointestinal tract, and could also result in more severe effects, including depression, weakness, disorientation, low blood pressure, cardiac problems, seizures, coma and death, depending on the type of ice melt and circumstances of exposure. Keep these products out of reach of your pet, and thoroughly wipe off your dog's legs, paws and stomach when it comes in out of the sleet, snow or ice to minimize the potential for skin irritation and to avoid ingestion of the chemicals.
Like coolant, antifreeze, even in very tiny doses, is a lethal poison for dogs and cats. Unfortunately, because of its sweet taste, animals are attracted to it. Be sure to thoroughly clean up any spills from your vehicle. To prevent accidental poisoning, more and more people are using animal-friendly products that contain propylene glycol rather than traditional products that contain ethylene glycol. Call your veterinarian or The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (888-4ANI- HELP) if you suspect your animal has been poisoned.
If you have a shorthaired breed, consider getting a warm coat or sweater with a high collar or turtleneck for your dog. Look for one that covers the dog from the base of its tail on top to its belly underneath. While this may seem like a luxury, it is a necessity for many. Don't shave your dog down to the skin in winter, as a longer coat will provide more warmth. When you bathe your dog in the colder months, be sure to completely dry him before taking him out for a walk.
Does your dog spend a lot of time engaged in outdoor activities? Increase his supply of food, particularly protein, to keep him—and his fur—in tip-top shape.
Never leave your dog or cat alone in a car in cold weather. A car can act as a refrigerator in the winter, holding in the cold. Your companion animal could freeze to death.
If your dog is sensitive to the cold because of age, illness or breed , take the animal outdoors only long enough for it to relieve itself .
Puppies do not tolerate cold as well as adult dogs and may be difficult to housebreak during the winter.
If your dog spends a lot of time engaged in outdoor activities, increase its supply of food, particularly protein, to keep fur thick and healthy.
Make sure your companion animal has a warm place to sleep, far away from drafts and off the floor. Consider a dog or cat bed or a basket with a warm blanket or pillow in it.
- Ice melting products
- Rat and mouse bait
3. HOLIDAY TIPS
These tips can apply to the winter Holidays, birthday parties, out-of-town visitors and the like. You'll see as you read along. They also apply to others' visiting pets as well as yours.
Items, Points, Situations to consider, plan for or around, or otherwise take into account:
Presents, bows, ribbons, gift wrapping
Presents come in fascinating boxes, gift wrapping is irresistable...and tinsel and ribbon can twist in a pet's intestines. ornaments and tinsel (which can cause the intestines to bunch up and may even cut through the intestinal wall, both problems being potentially fatal).
Be aware: I know my own cat can spot a little piece of ribbbon from across the room and get to it and be actively eating it within a matter of a minute or two. I've heard a verrrrrry slight hhhhck noise, wandered into the next room and found my cat gagging on some ribbon he found who-knows-where. Stick-on bows are recommended for packages!
Real or fake plants, Halloween and Fall plants, Christmas trees; Decorations and party/Holiday accessories
Decorative plants and greenery
Real or fake Christmas trees (including its use by dogs to mark territory. Tether your Christmas tree to a wall or window frame in order to keep it stable in case a cat or other pet climbs up the tree. Safety starts with securing the Christmas tree so curious pets don't knock it down.
Remember also the water under the Christmas tree (especially if you add any tree preservative). Thirsty pets may try out the water bowl under the tree. When you use tree-preserving chemicals or aspirin, your pet could be drinking poison. Cover this bowl and provide fresh water in other areas of the house.
Also, pine sap from the tree can cause a health problem.
Keep valuable ornaments and family heirlooms out of the reach of curious pets' mouths, noses and wagging tails. Knick-knacks should be on shelves that are inaccessible to animals. Decorate with your pet in mind by placing breakable ornaments at the top of the tree; resist the urge to use tinsel or use it high on the tree and out of reach of pets. Nimble cats can get on mantles and shelves, so place all fragile decorations out of pets' reach.
Puffy fake snow
Poinsettias, holly and mistletoe are wonderful holiday decorations but are poisonous to household pets. These plants can cause vomiting and diarrhea. You should call you veterinarian immediately if your pet eats them. Other plants to keep out of pets' reach are lilies and amaryllis.
Popular Halloween plants such as pumpkins and decorative corn are considered to be relatively nontoxic, yet they can produce gastrointestinal upset should pets ingest them. Intestinal blockage could even occur if large pieces are consumed.
Other real or fake plants
Costumes (Halloween and other festivities; Christmas hats, reindeer ears, scarves, vests etc): If you do dress up your pet, make sure that the costume isn’t annoying or unsafe. It should not restrict the animal’s movement or hearing, or impede his ability to breathe or bark. Keep a look out for small, dangling or easily chewed-off pieces on the costume that your pet could choke on. Also, please don’t put your dog or cat in costume unless you know he or she enjoys this. Otherwise wearing a costume can cause undue stress.
Electrical cords (extra ones added for the festivities as well as regular ones)
Flashing or blinking lights
Statuettes (Santa, Jesus, Nativity Scenes, Reindeer, Santa's sleigh with goodies in there, etc.)
Look before you light your holiday candles and potpourri burners. Make sure they are out of the reach of your dog's tail or your curious cat (or a pet who might drink liquie potpourri).
Keep lit candles away from pets. Hanukah Menorahs, Shabbus and other religious candles, tribute candles for military, Memorial Day and the like; etc. Look before you light your holiday candles, incence and potpourri burners. Make sure they are out of the reach of your dog's tail or your curious cat, and if they are electrical warmers, that the cords are not a temptation or simply in the way and tangle-friendly for pets.
Treats and food, alcoholic and rich drinks (like egg nog).
If you bring your pet to someone else's get-togethers and parties: Never forget that your friends and family do not necessarily know, understand or share in your own specific, peculiar or unique concerns about your pet's safety.
Be alert for open, unscreened windows or doors in a home through which animals can fall or jump (including visitors deciding to leave sliding doors open, bathroom windows, etc). This includes when your friend is receiving more guests. If they are not pet owners, or just due to the fact that they do not live in your home and know "the ropes", they won't have that "third eye" watching for such ways for animals to get into mischief or trouble, or disappear altogether.
Oh, and by the way, you're not being "overprotective", and your pet is not "spoiled".
When visitors come to your house:
Walk your dog before guests arrive. While this might seem obvious, often it is overlooked. A nice, long walk may sufficiently tire them out / relax them so that they will take a nap or generally be calmer when guests arrive, and can be helpful to them if they would otherwise get uncomfortable needing to piddle from excitement. The holidays often result in pets uncharacteristically toileting in the house. Excitement, excessive treats, inadvertent table scraps, and for dogs, distractions that result in forgetting to take the dog outside all contribute to the problem. Take the necessary steps to ensure your pet gets the proper attention. But, don't alter his normal food and avoid the urge to give him table scraps if this is not part of his normal diet.
If they bring their pets
Be as considerate as you would appreciate them to be with your pet. Remove treats off the ground and from areas your pet squirrels them away. If their dog is going to go for your pet's toys and may choke on them, stash them. Do all of this beforehand, and then after they arrive, ask the owner before introducing something for their pet.
Put fresh water down, and then change it completely back (new or well-cleaned bowl) when their pet leaves.
Secure your own pets' "safe places", cages for birds and reptiles, etc.
Don't forget your pet's medicine schedules as applicable.
If your pet gets upset by, say, another dog taking his toy, or the smell of another cat near his bed, respect your pet. Your mutual home is HIS space, too. The visiting pet won't know or care the difference if you do some steps to protect this or secure that whatever it is that your pet's worried about - but your pet will know if you don't.
If your pets stay in the garage when visitors come (or go to the garage when you bring them to another's home) be alert for antifreeze on the floor and other substances within sniffing, ingesting or knocking over reach. Also remember outside temperatures can drop rapidly.
A pet's routine is drastically changed over the holidays at most households. They are creatures of habit. When guests and new excitement arrive during the holidays, it's typically a time the family dog might display uncharacteristic unruly or aggressive behavior. Also, kids your pet knows can get sugared out, up too late, etc and become wild and wooley themselves, which can frighten, electrify or "trigger" an otherwise docile animal. Be aware of potential problems -- you know your pets better than anyone -- and never leave a dog alone with small children.
Horns, bells, whistles, fireworks and other noisemakers can terrify pets. Groups of holiday guests can cause pets to become overexcited, confused or frightened. If applicable in your household, make sure your pets are in a safe place away from such noises. Keep them in a quiet part of the house and ensure they have their bed or kennel in a safe area that allows them to retreat from children and other over-eager visitors. Make sure your guests know this safe area is off-limits.
Certain festivity substances we take for granted are dangerous to pets, such as chocolate, any other rich holiday foods, alcohol (often mixed in with Holiday desserts and some recipes), potato latkes, Valentine's candy, poultry bones and skin, gooey substances on the floor, etc. Don't give your dog rich foods. During the holidays we want to share "goodies" with our dogs -- but the result can be no real treat for your dog. Unfortunately, these "treats" can trigger life-threatening illnesses in the intestines and pancreas of a dog. Pancreatitis is a nasty ailment and can be brought on quite easily with the "wrong" foods, and can kill a dog. I've seen it happen and dealt with the emotional aftermath and re-connecting pet and owner. Nice that I can do that...not nice that it a Passed Over Pet Consultation was suddenly needed. Beware also bread dough - see this write-up.
Don't forget drugs, prescriptions and medicines, if you're visiting and bringing your pet, if someone is bringing their inquisitive pet over to your place, and/or if you're, well, partying. Hate to tell you but as well as the health issues involved, pets don't like "getting stoned" as much as you might think they do. Take it from someone who's heard them when they're asked about it.
They don't like it when you're stoned or high, either, in spite of any reactions they've had to your acting all cute and funny.
There are places to get Holiday pet treats, pet clothes and so on so they can feel included in the fun! Pet stores, catalogs, online, etc.
Give your dog his gift when others get theirs, when applicable.
With certain exceptions which may apply to your own life, of course, don't give pets as presents. The reasons and logic behind this statement are too long and obvious to list.
4. OTHER SEASONAL TIPS:
|LAWN AND GARDEN / SPRINGTIME / PLANTING: COCOA BEAN MULCH
As spring approaches, people will start to tend their lawns and gardens. Many will consider using cocoa bean mulch as a fertilizer. Made from spent cocoa beans used in chocolate production, cocoa bean mulch is organic, deters slugs and snails, and gives a garden an appealing chocolate smell. However, it also attracts dogs, who can easily be poisoned by eating the mulch.
(from an internet newsletter) "Cocoa beans contain the stimulants caffeine and theobromine. Dogs are highly sensitive to these chemicals, called methylxanthines. In dogs, low doses of methylxanthine can cause mild gastrointestinal upset (vomiting, diarrhea, and/or abdominal pain); higher doses can cause rapid heart rate, muscle tremors, seizures, and death.
Eaten by a 50-pound dog, about 2 ounces of cocoa bean mulch may cause gastrointestinal upset; about 4.5 ounces, increased heart rate; about 5.3 ounces, seizures; and over 9 ounces, death. (In contrast, a 50-pound dog can eat up to about 7.5 ounces of milk chocolate without gastrointestinal upset and up to about a pound of milk chocolate without increased heart rate.)"
(NOTE that different texts and different vets have varying opinions about chocolate and dogs - well, pets, actually, but the rule of thumb is do NOT let them get their hands - er, paws - e,r jaws on it. With cats, one after-hours emergency vet clinic told me that one ounce per pound of body weight is the harmful amount. ~ Julie)
PETS GET SPRING ALLERGIES, TOO
BREA, Calif. (UPI) -- Pollutants and allergens are at their peak in the spring and animals can experience allergy symptoms like humans, says a U.S. company that insures pets.
Veterinary Pet Insurance, a health insurance provider for pets, says conditions like otitis externa, an ear infection, and atopic dermatitis, a skin rash due to inhaled allergens, are relatively common in dogs. VPI based its report on an analysis of claims data from 2005.
The top allergy-related claim for canines was for otitis externa, which accounted for 14.2 percent of all claims submitted last year, while Atopic Dermatitis accounted for 14.1 percent of claims.
Secondary pyoderma -- inflamed, infected skin -- accounted for 5.2 percent of all claims involving dogs.
Cats suffer from fewer allergy conditions, the company said.
Almost 5 percent of the claims for cats were for Atopic Dermatitis, while 4.7 were for otitis externa and 2.4 percent involved bronchitis or asthma.
FOURTH OF JULY, BBQ & SIMILAR OUTDOOR TIPS:
|* Do not apply any sunscreen or insect repellent product to your pet that is not labeled specifically for use on animals. Ingestion of sunscreen products can result in drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst and lethargy. The misuse of insect repellent that contains DEET can lead to neurological problems.
* Always keep matches and lighter fluid out of your pets’ reach. Certain types of matches, for example, contain chlorates, which could potentially damage blood cells and result in difficulty breathing.
* Keep your pets on their normal diet. Any change, even for one meal, can give them severe indigestion and diarrhea. And keep in mind that foods such as onions, chocolate, coffee, avocado, grapes & raisins, salt and yeast dough can all be potentially toxic to companion animals.
* Loud, crowded fireworks displays are no fun for pets, so please resist the urge to take them to Independence Day festivities. Instead, keep your little guys safe from the noise in a quiet, sheltered and escape-proof area at home.
5. OTHER HEALTH AND SAFETY TIPS.
Some like to have their dogs in the bed of their truck or hanging out vehicle windows. One good unexpected pothole or bump in the road (let alone an accident) and... or, a vehicle coming at you from the opposite direction veers for some reason. Need I say more? It's NOT what you expect, it's what you DON'T expect! Weigh their happy wind-blown face (or your personal convenience) against the potential ramifications. Once is all it takes. You are responsible for their safety and well being.
JOINT PAINS, STIFFNESS, ARTHRITIS, SPRAINS & RELATED
Glucosamine: Vet swears by it. He says it's a good thing to give them every single day of their lives. Lubes the joints. Also Chondroitin, or, a combo of both. Vet says use human grade to ensure high potency and in some cases, that there's any in there at all (he did some research and some brands said the capsule contained X amount of Glucosamine and there wasn't any in there at all)! He only likes Now brand. I don't recommend or not recommend, I'm just passing that along.
Hyaluronic Acid ("HA"). For joint / arthritis relief. Hyaluronic Acid is found in various parts of the body including synovial fluid in our knees, and is what is often injected into humans' injured knees for relief, under a different name: you may have gotten this or know of someone who has, and the shot may have been known by a brand names as Synovisc. (See this link for more information on that, if you'd like.). There are HA products for pets now as well (look for HA or "syn" or Hyaluronic acid in the ingredients). For this one, it's best you do a net search for yourself and find links to read and perhaps purchase from. I've read and heard a lot about this product and some folks I know swear by it. Dictionary.com's definitions for Hyaluronic Acid have the basics right there (slightly technical, but informative). Very worth a read just to get the idea, then do a search for info. You can try it or print out some info on it and some of the products and bounce it off of your vet.
NOTE THAT you have to check all of this with your vet. Pets whose body chemistry needs to be kept at a certain pH, for example, may not be able to take "healthy" supplements, regardless. Check ALL ALL ALL of these things with YOUR vet.
6. Ticks: My vet says ignore all the yak-yak...simply put a blob of Vaseline over it. It suffocates the tick who pulls back out. Carrrrrefullly finish the job for the little bugger, and flush (or better yet stick him in a container and take him to the vet so they can check it for disease). Make sure or have your vet make sure that the bugger's head didn't remain or dive inside your pet's body as this can cause inflammation or worse. So I tried this for the one tick my dog Fox hass ever gotten (yuck!). I smothered the area with a small blob of Vaseline. Worked like a charm. Left alone, the little beastie had pulled further and futher out each time I checked, and in I'd say about 20-30 minutes he was sufficiently hanging out to be gently pulled out the rest of the way with a tweezers. His head did not detach, and all was well. For me and my dog, anyway.
7. Dogs often naturally sleep 10-14 hours a day. When I first got Fox Mulder, this habit alarmed me so I checked with my vet. Nope - no problem! He did point out something which I will pass along to you, though: if you feel your dog's sleeping too much, is lethargic, etc., contact your vet, just don't forget that a lot of snoozin' is normal for them. Sort out what your dog's "normal" is, and of course, keep an eye on this as the years progress.
There a lot of reason dogs lick, lick, lick. One can read up on this all over the place. Let me relate something that happened with me just to add to the mix; the "point" will be obvious.
Fox will on occasion chew on his foot pads in little quick motions, as a lot of dogs do. No big deal; he never does any damage and it's a bored or what about me? etc catch-all thing he does. Lasts a few seconds and onto the next thing to do.
I do get requests from dog owners to find ot why their dog does continuous licking (or chewing) on feet, pads, etc. What Fox does is different, but I'm aware that this does exist for others (NOTE sometimes what a pet owner thinks is Some Big Deal really IS nothing more than what Fox does and the owner is just being concerned for no real reason).
The other day, I noticed that on Fox's right front forearm, like above the wrist and below the elbow, you might say, there was a pink patch about the size of a dime. This was a first. I looked closely - the pink was his skin (boy, they ain't kiddin' when they say both his breeds he's mixed from are pink-skinned dogs!) There was no inflammation or cut skin. Okay. I knew there was something wrong, though, as this was not from his usual chewy-chompy.
I called the vet and also my groomer to get some ideas, rule of thumb, what they've seen, what to look for. Some of the possibilities included allergic reaction, food allergy allergic reaction, ringworm, hot spots, sting or flea/other bite, or a cut. I also read up on "Lick Granuloma" on the net as I'd heard of that; it seemed to apply although the licked area was not too bad off (yet) and none of the "reasons why" seemed to fit. Even "stress" - there had been a few things this past week but still, he has his ways of reflecting stress and this was never one of those ways.
One article on Lick Granuloma did say that there could be sort of nerve pain (inside the limb) which leads to the licking. The licking becomes a "thing" unto itself including inflamming the area, and so becomes a resultant problem.
The next time he started the licking, which was only going on a few times a day, I watched him very carefully without distracting him. He used long, loving lick strokes with eye half-closed: his nursing mode. He tugged very gently at the hairs around the patch area. This went on for about 5 minutes. I called the vet to report in and ultimately brought him in to get examined.
I'm glad I did. Turns out he had a sprained carpal area. Sprained wrist, if you will. And he had NO other visible symptoms, and being a stoic at a base, instinctive level (as most animals are), it wasn't that real to him that there was anything to report, so to speak. I may never have found out (until he had a worse condition developed up the line).
As a Pet Communicator, this interested me because I began to think, how many times has someone called me because their dog's into this compulsive licking thing and it could just have been from some earlier undetected injury that they never knew to have their vet check for? Many would have them believe it to be "boredom" or "stress" or some "psych disorder" such as "separation anxiety" or "obsessive/compulsive disorder" when in fact, it was from a physical discomfort all along. Typical - you see this in humans all the time (the psych community creating labels and then misdiagnosing using these catch-all "labels" leading to druggings to suppress the symptoms and "take the edge off" without isolating the original source - don't get me started.) ANYway, a good rule of thumb in "compulsive" or "off somehow" behavior IS to get them vet-checked. Look, Fox is an indoor dog. He doesn't live with other dogs and isn't a big woofy type, personality-wise. Many dogs are - they're wonderful, woofy happy-happy wrestlin' dogs with their dog siblings and have back yards, participate in doggie sports such as Frisbee and ball throws and jumpin' in the lake and so on, so one little irritating injury could easily go undetected. Some already get hot spots, flea bites, this and that irritations on their skin. Fox doesn't happen to, so his One Big Sign (the missing patch of hair) stood out like a sore thumb.
Nonetheless, please keep this in mind - what you think or are told is "mental" or "psychological" is most likely preceded by, connected to or rooted in a physical condition. YES, it can turn into a genuine, bona fide ongoing behaviorial condition (such as on going chewing, gnawing, licking, etc.) But one of the big hopes in knocking that condition out can be what triggered it in the first place, IF you can trace that. I can help but remember the dog has to also remember and that's often not possible (could YOU spot the exact bumpie during High School football that started the condition X in the thoracic part of your spine? etc).
We'll work as a team to try and nail it down. That, combined with medical attention (doggie NSAIDs, natural healing and supplements, whatever, protecting the area, whatever) can possibly go a long way toward restoring your dog's health and condition back to an earlier, more healthy, fun and stable state.
NOTE you might want to read my writeup about animals and pain later on this page...
Why do cats (and dogs) eat grass and throw up? I've read countless articles about it. Could be this, must be that, surely is the other. And I'm sure, physically one or tother is correct. I don't know as I'm not around "all cats". Danny my cat loves chlorella tablets from Swansons vitamins, and we also get him a plant from PetSmart and he chomps away and doesn't throw up. Maybe if he were an outside cat, he'd chomp away at some other type of grass and that wouldn't sit as well in his stomach.
If you ask them they're like - well, that's almost like asking them why they breathe. They just - do. It tastes good. They don't care that they throw up, that's just something that "happens". They don't, by the way, necessarily associate that throwing up with throwing up while ill. When ill, you can get in comm with them and they'll say, I feel ill. (and) I threw up. It can be 2 isolated datums for them (which in fact they are. Sometimes they're related, sometimes not, such as when the cat's not ill but throws up hairballs or grass).
My cat Danny is an extremely healthy indoor cat, loves to eat anything from the plant kingdom. He'll go so far as to eat artificial plants because they visually resemble plants! No kidding. Very irritating.. all my plants, outta here. All things resembling plants, outta here. Sigh! I can't keep flowers if someone's so kind as to send me any. Now, he rarely throws up but one of the first times, it seemed slightly different than the couple of times he had before. He does have hairball spit-ups so gets "the goo" (hairball remedy - has to be the petroleum based version or is virtually worthless - once again, the vet was right!) One time he threw up and it was slightly different. Two things had changed: I did get him a cat plant from PetSmart (he's only had one or two of them before) which he heartily munched away on any time I took it out of the fridge for him (once per day, pretty much daily), and he also had not had his hairball goo in some weeks (bad Mommy!).
Now, this time when he threw up, it was rather out of the blue, smelled sour and he did not try to re-eat it (and seemed upset and did not feel well afterward, he did that kitty hunkering thing). What came out of him and did not seem to contain any obvious hairball. He had also not just eaten his plant; as a matter of fact, he had not munched on it all day or perhaps even since the day before, so I did not associate the two. That is, I didn't assume that the plant made him throw up. I kept an eye on him but all seemed fine from that point forward. About a week or week 1/2 later, the same thing happened. This time there was a bit of a "turdy" looking thing in there which I assumed to be a tight hairball (all the hairballs I've seen have the appearance somehow or another of containing, well, hair!). He also had not had his plant in awhile but I was suspicious, and getting concerned. My cat throws up twice in 2-3 weeks? There is most definitely something wrong. It does not have to be a bad ailment, per se, but there is something wrong which must be put right. I called the vet's office and bounced things off of them. The vet let me know that when animals eat plants, they (pretty much all of them) throw up ... over and out. And obviously, to keep an eye on him and if it doesn't stop or he gets worse dot dot dot.
I gave him some hairball remedy and stopped with the plant.
Later I reintroduced the plant and he did not throw up. He now only gets it on occasion, just not daily, and so far, so good. I believe the combo of the ommitted hairball remedy, and the ingestion of the plant, created sufficient GI tract or stomach upset to create the throwing up (including that first time the sour smell one associates with throwing up from Not Feeling Well as opposed to just a benign reaction to munching on plants, getting some nutrients, and the body rejecting the shells of the form that those nutrients came via. Sort of like taking minerals in a capsule that has those 2 parts that separate and open if you pull them apart, and then for whatever reason throwing up the cap's outer wall. Julie's opinion).
Disclaimer: These are experiences with MY kitty. My dog. My household.
Bottom line? as a Mommy, pet owner, and/or Communicator, I still had to use logic, common sense, book smarts, vet smarts and a combo of some gut feelings and some experience, to ascertain what was most likely up with my pet kitty, and handle it for him. He couldn't tell me anything. He could send me the concept of the equivalent of "Mommy, I puked". Same as any other child.
When you use me as a Communicator to send them the concepts which will connect the dots for them about how Each time they eat this grass they throw up, they're like...Oh. Okay! And next time, they chomp away at grass again. They want it, it's got something they need, they eat it. (If they associated it with being sick, they'd stop. They don't, so they don't.)
More times than not, when it's pointed out to them that there's something er um kind of "off" (wrong) about what they're doing (even if it's just implied by Why do they eat grass and then throw up and then keep doing it?!!? type of way of asking....), it's not wrong, to them. It's wrong, to humans. Perhaps it doesn't occur to us that this is some sort of normal abnormality (if that makes sense).
Medically or health-wise, each case has to be evaluated individually. Just understand the above, is all I ask.
Animals are like 5 year old kids, mentality-wise. The being is wise but the "package", the "pet" you see, quite often isn't that sophisticated. Things just Happen. They just Are. They do things...Because They Do.
There are exceptions. It CAN'T HURT to talk to pets about things and just see what happens! Write-ups on my site are just my generalized conclusions based on comm with animals and common sense.
Nursing ~ Your pet is a "nurse"!
Something to consider: Humans don't lick our own wounds. We don't lick our bodies to groom or clean ourselves. We don't lick our tushes after we go to the bathroom. We don't lick our friend's cut or oozing sore to assist their healing.
As we so often do, most humans project our behavior patterns over to animals, in varying degrees. It's "understandable" when your dog scrapes himself, that he'd lick it. It's "cute" when kitty licks puppy's ear to clean it. It's "their way", when they groom their own hair. It's "tee-hee" when they lick their butts after going (or whenever). The list goes on. If you take the time to mentally (or jot down) an actual list of these types of things that animals do, then think about it for a sec - each point will have some person who can't stand it, is embarrased by it, thinks it's odd or wrong, etc. Maybe not you, but you've all seen this in other pet owners, at the dog park, in movies, whatever.
Now get the idea that Nature has provided certain incentives, reasons, and methods to her madness when it comes to these things. Look - generally speaking, in the wild, putting humans (and animals) into a natural and uncivilized setting, if no one had taste buds, and/or there was no sense of "hunger", eating food and the effort it took in the wild to acquire that food would put a body in severe danger of starvation. if sex didn't feel good, reproduction would pretty much cease. If drinking did not quench thirst, people would suffer from or die of dehydration. Animals aren't set up to use "products". There's no Walgreens for them, no toilet paper, salves and Neosporin. They have only themselves, each other and whatever they find in the wild.
Nature has worked in some features which make licking wounds (in self and others) attractive. This ensures it gets done, for the survival of their species and overall and ultimately all life on Earth. If you have a cut or you remove a bandage and an inflamed area is oozing a bit, your dog may come by and wish to lick the area for you. It is entirely up to you as to whether or not you find this desireable or sanitary, but regardless of whether you have or allow them to do this, my point here is solely the following: please do understand that this is an attempt to either help you, as they see your pain, feel your pain, hear your pain, or perhaps pick up just by virtue of the odor of blood and/or other fluids that something is wrong, you've been injured and the integrity (wholeness) of your body has been violated and is now in need of immediate assistance and repair. This is their attempt to help you, to heal your body, or both (as these two concepts are inter-related). There is of course the soothing, loving closeness that comes with it. Part of the fringe benefit!
Please don't get into an "Eyuuuuuuu!!"-fest with an animal when they try to lick wounds. Don't let anyone else do this to their pet or to your pet. This being is trying to Help you or another and should be praised and validated for this. If you do not wish for them to also do the action, find a respectful and diplomatic way to deter their actions and get them off into doing something else to help that's more acceptable to you or to whoever this is unacceptble to.
Point to consider ~ you may recall as a child that you and/or others tasted bodily fluids which we now would not wish to admit to, and / or would go Eyuuu! if we thought of it, divulged it or saw someone else doing. As children, we're not yet so influenced by society's behavior codes, so yes, you'll see kids, for examle, picking their noses and eating it (and what is "snot" but discharge, pus, this type of thing). One thing which seems to remain acceptable regardless of one's age is that quick licking and/or sucking a cut to clean it out / stop bleeding. We don't also go, Eyuuuu! I licked my blood! and this "behavior" by the way has probably saved millions of lives throughout the human race's existence. We do it almost without thinking, and we suck germs and toxins right out, and stopping even a little bit of bleeding can go a long way, out in "the wild".
10. Diabetes notes ~ See this write-up.
12. Other Health and Safety Announcements ~ See Below
13. Missing pets: click here.
14. Travel Tips (your travel, that is) are found here.
17. Psychotrophic drugs and animals ~ As stated in a few places on this site in varied contexts, YES Aunt Julie's VERY anti- psych drug. Before the days of "drugging your pet" there was "drugging your child" (this vogue still being pushed) and before that was just plain ol' drugging yourself a la Marilyn Monroe. At least it was just oneself or one's wife, as portrayed in the movies (The family got some bad news? Sedate wifey and put her to bed.) At least? It became very "in vogue" and just what was done. But one would hope that Wifey had some say in it. A child does not; now, nor does Rover. It USED to be frowned on, drugging our society. Now it's pushed heavily.
You can watch this 4 minute video if you'd like...
If you do, stick through it long enough to start watching the interviews with the psychiatrists at the 2006 APA (American Psychiatric Association) Convention...then lean back and enjoy the ride. I'm not here to be on a soapbox. This website has to do with animals. And as such......Animals are at the mercy of what humans do to them. Don't forget it.
Just because certain vested interests have put this into a sort of new "vogue" in the past, oh, five years or so does not make it correct, legitimate, workable or any less cruel or domineering to drug someone into being the way you'd like them. YES I know there are desperate situations,and some genuine concerns about whether an animal (or kid) (or your next door neighbor) is "suffering' without such "alleviation" or behaviorial "modificiation". Believe me I know it. I hear about it a lot, on the phone, in tv shows which now treat this all as "normal", in regular life. Somehow we clunked through it before as a species...a species of ourselves, a species which has children, and a species that interacts with other species - for millenia. In any case, there are natural alternatives which work for some and not for others. And we had less serial killers, Columbine shootings, rashes of child molestations, and the like. Percentage-wise, that is, no one's saying no one's ever done anything evil. Any being, animal or human, can get pushed to a "brink", so it's natural and logical to look for some sort of solution (such as a substance) to soothe things out for the victim (the person who's about to flip out and then create new victims). The "meds" seem to be the answer, but statistics show they are not. I've got a few ideas on my Good Links page you can check out if you'd like (Some products that may help with your pet's stress), as well as browsing the net and/or calling pet stores, holistic and "alternative" vets (and human doctors and nutritionist, if you'd like), search the net, and so on, to see what products are available which might help animals.
This being aside from working to find out what's UP with your pet that's bothering them in the first place, and seeing if this can be alleviated.
I won't shun you as a client if you are or have subjected your pet to psych drugs. I know you were or are trying to help them, help you, help your situation. I DO know this. Plus vets are starting to weave this in their dialogue, whereas they never would have before, it just rolls off of their tongues. They deal with the animal's health and body, not their mind, but somehow psychs have infiltrated now their field as well and made it all about the chemicals, and so on. (Sigh.)
Like I said, I do know things can get crazy. Hey - I get irritated when my beloved Fox decides to go on a barking spree because, oh, UPS had the audacity to drive and park anywhere near where we live J And that's no big deal, he stops pretty fast. If he was a "basket case", a formerly abused dog, a Katrina rescue animal, a burn victim, had been tied to a post, whatever....well, yes, I DO know how bad it can be. I've heard from the owners and I've talked to the animals.
I do also find that the pets on the drugs do, for lack of better wording, odd things with their mind. There's no other way to put it. They can come off as happy...all that....yes, it squashes certain "urges"....but they simply process ideas, notions, mental pictures and the like in a way that just can be best described as "oddly" and in many cases, tragically. They compartment ideas into little "boxes", sometimes they've actually got imagery of sliding partitions and so on. It's really weird and not a healthy state of affairs. They are routinely NOT happy about it even when they simultaneously state that they "feel happier". Truth be known, I've only had one or two actually say that they are actually happier as a result. Or they don't know they're taking this type of pill so they of course go with the flow and just feel however they feel. When I get to them, they don't know the difference: you can't see your own rose colored glasses through rose colored glasses - and/or I don't know the difference, they just function mentally however they function mentally. It's not like I'd "pick up" on it. I just talk with them. No different than the guy who pumps gas, I don't know what he's on or not on. I just talk with him and then I'm on my way.
They can act better or happier while in fact are just sort of the equivalent of a grinning happy fool. The owner sees a happier, calmer dog, no longer, oh, drooling in the car, or a cat no longer scowling and scooting off when a human walks in the room. Kitty no longer pees everywhere, and all other attempts to handle this problem have not worked including talking with Communicators (including Aunt Julie) cuz all you get is "why they do it" but they don't stop. I GET it. Just know that I have perceived the differences, and weirdnesses, and on top of that, this trespasses into the area, the concept, the field of...they're a being and who do you think you are to do this to them without their full understanding, power of choice, ability to research it fully for themselves? (The latter being something which is only in recent years opening up for even humans.) If I talk with your pet and don't know he's on this or that drug, I wouldn't necessarily know "the difference" as to me, there is no difference, he's just - your pet, someone I'm talking with. I don't talk with someone on the street and somehow "know" they're on psych drugs, either. And if I didn't know them prior, I wouldn't know the comparison (which isn't always outwardly obvious, either).
Anyway, that's basically the long and short of what I've got to say on the subject. Just know the above and we'll take it from there. I'm still here and like I said, I'm not going to tsk tsk you (at all) nor refuse you as a client, make a fuss with or upset the animal about it, etc. It's just good data for me to know, going in, and then we just proceed from there like normal.
This subject isn't by the way open for lots of discussion and controversy. Not interested.
P.S. Sometimes just talking and finding out what YOUR pet wants to say or ask or get clarified or be addressed helps them. SEE THIS TESTIMONIAL as one example. It can happen! NOTE there's no judgement at my end. Things are as they are in this society. But communication is often bypassed as a help or a solution ~ and that's really easy to have happen inter-species 'cause it's hard to have a conversation with a dog! So - maybe Aunt Julie can help the two of you talk. Yes, read this one....
I have put together a Toxins chart, as I call it. It's basically a table of substances and foods which are considered to be unhealthy or dangerous for dogs (and cats, a lot of it). It's NOT "veterinarian reviewed" and I've compiled it from reputable sites and info sources, things my vet has told me, newsletters and so on. Please check with your vet on any of them you are not certain of. Also, please email me if you'd like with anything else you feel I should put on there and the back-up info on it.
What's the deal with animals and pain? What is "stoic"?
Please see this write-up. It's a separate page; return to this one when done.
Still Not Sure about doing a Pet Consultation?
UNITED WE STAND.
All site contents Copyright (c) 2002, 2010 Julie Rich.