People often explain their preference for cats by pointing out that, compared to dogs, cats are quieter, more independent and make less demands on their owners. But the obverse of this low-maintenance ``advantage'' is that a sick cat is unlikely to exhibit any noticeable symptoms, especially during the early stages of an illness. Vets concede that they often have major headaches trying to work out the cause of a feline ailment. And, to make matters worse, because cats are so self-sufficient, their owners often have difficulty providing the vet with detailed information on the circumstances surrounding the onset and progress of an illness. Many people simply don't have a clue about what their pet has been up to, especially if the cat is allowed to come and go freely. And many are not sufficiently informed about animal behaviour to notice the tell-tale signs of incipient health problems. Sometimes, a physical check-up and laboratory tests are not enough to yield an accurate diagnosis; in fact, they can often be a total waste of time and money. But owners who regularly monitor their pet's general state of health are much more likely to spot a problem before it becomes serious. To be able to detect if something is wrong with your animal you must learn to recognise the clinical signs of some common feline illnesses. Basic abnormalities include vomiting, diarrhoea, coughing, sneezing and discharges from the eyes, ears and nose. Some conditions also cause bleeding from the nose, mouth, rectum and the corner of the eye. The vomit from a sick cat normally comprises shreds of food, yellow gastric juice and frothy white saliva. It will be extremely helpful for diagnosis purposes if the owner can inform the vet of the frequency with which the animal has been vomiting and how long before, or after, a meal this usually occurs. Another symptom that points to an incipient health problem _ but which can be notoriously difficult to detect _ is lassitude, a decline in the cat's normal level of physical activity or playfulness. Unfortunately, this will be harder to spot in animals of a quiet or indolent disposition. In the latter case, an early warning sign is a perceptible change in the cat's regular routine: Is your pet licking and grooming itself less frequently than usual? Does it appear indifferent to its environment or its favourite toys? One thing to check for here is paleness of the gums. If your cat's gums turn white it could be a indication of severe anaemia; waste no time in getting the animal to a vet. A sick cat will often have a poor appetite, or refuse to eat at all. In animals, as in humans, weight loss is a good indicator of deteriorating health. It's a good idea to weigh your cat on a weekly basis. The easiest way to do this is to pick up your pet, stand on a weighing scales and then subtract your own weight from the total. Note down the figure and if you notice a drop of 10 percent or more between one week and the next, start looking for other signs of abnormality. Conscientious cat owners will, of course, have vaccinated their pets against contagious diseases and common parasites but some forget that annual booster shots are also required to maintain the maximum level of protection. If your cat has not defecated for three consecutive days, it is suffering from constipation. And if this is not treated the animal could eventually develop anorexia and die of a condition called megacolon. If it hasn't urinated for more than 24 hours, this could be a sign of a urinary-tract disorder or kidney disease. Faeces containing a lot of hair is a bad sign, too; the cat may have a fur ball in its intestinal tract and this could eventually prevent the evacuation of solid waste. Fluid leaking from the vagina could indicate an infection in the reproductive system or the urinary tract. Plaque can sometimes block the urinary tracts of neutered tom-cats. If you notice that the animal is having difficulty urinating, consult a vet immediately.   PLANT EATING:  Any plant material ingested by an animal (as when cats and dogs ingest lawn grass) may produce symptoms of vomiting, diarrhea, depression, or a combination of all three. These symptoms are generally mild, self-limiting, and often don't require veterinary treatment. If symptoms persist, however, immediately take your pet to the veterinarian. So, keep your eyes peeled and monitor your pet's behaviour. Bear in mind that early diagnosis of a health problem can make medical treatment easier and improve the chances of a rapid and complete recovery. When it comes to our own health, we human beings are aware that prevention is always better than cure. And that advice ap Applies equally to the animals with which we choose to share our lives. So, all you cat-owners out there: Be vigilant!

The Veterinarian's Oath "Being admitted to the profession of veterinary medicine, I solemnly swear to use my scientific knowledge and skills for the benefit of society through the protection of animal health, the relief of animal suffering, the conservation of animal resources, the promotion of public health, and the advancement of medical knowledge. "I will practice my profession conscientiously, with dignity, and in keeping with the principles of veterinary medical ethics. "I accept as a lifelong obligation the continual improvement of my professional knowledge and competence." (Adopted by the House of Delegates, July 1969, amended by the Executive Board, November 1999)

HEALTH & SAFETY ANNOUNCEMENTS  My site kept getting bigger and bigger and bigger with my postings of ASPCA News Alerts, health alerts and the like. Yikes! I decided to streamline things and now have most of that on this page, including a link to the Table I compiled of substances known or thought to be toxic to dogs and cats which I compiled. I encourage you to research health, poisons, toxins, well-care, medical and similar items yourself. Talk to your vet, other vets, consult reputable publications, subscribe to the ASPCA's and other organizations' email newsletters (such as the "ASPCA News Alert, The weekly newsletter of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals"), and do liberal internet search engine searches (e.g. type in  "  grapes dog "   to see what links come up regarding the subject of dogs ingesting grapes, raisins, and the like).

May 17th, 2010 RE:  Sergents / Problems with SentryPro XFC flea and tick medication http://www.abcactionnews.com/mostpopular/story/Have-a-pet-Medication-linked-to-burns-seizures/5eYIkUu4FUmChdNWQznV2Q.cspx Posting board (anecdotal): http://journal.drfaulken.com/problems-with-sentrypro-xfc-flea-and-tick-medication/

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT RESCUE REMEDY PRODUCTS Click here (then come back to this page if desired using Back button on your browser or at the bottom of my site's page)

Poisons Research Link (browse this site before something happens!) ASPCA Poison Control Center (for help with Poison issues) ASPCA Home Page (their site is full of info and resources) American Veterinary Medical Association's Health Brochures (such as West Nile, Parvo, Rabies) Animal Attraction & The Humane Society's write-up "Protect Your Pet from Common Household Dangers" If all of your precautions fail and you believe that your pet has been poisoned, contact your veterinarian or emergency veterinary service immediately. Signs of poisoning include listlessness, abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhea, muscle tremors, lack of coordination, and fever. IDEA: Put a mini-poster on your fridge with current pet poison telephone numbers and your charge card information (including expiration dates and the code on the back). You are NOT going to want to go hunting around for this if your pet's convulsing and if the poison control place charges over the phone (which they do, except for one I recently stumbled upon). Include all the local vet's telephone numbers, directions how to get there if they're not your usual vet, their hours, etc. Periodically call the poison control numbers to make sure they're up-to-date (and your charge card info), perhaps when you change your smoke alarm batteries, change your clocks for Daylight Savings, file a quarterly tax return, whatever.

The ASPCA put it best when referring to cocoa mulch (the bold part is the wording I love) but the following of course applies to any similar circumstance: "One key point to remember is that some dogs, particularly those with indiscriminate eating habits, can be attracted to any organic matter. Therefore, it is important that your dog not be left unsupervised or allowed in areas where such materials are being used."

HOT WEATHER PET TIPS Don't forget to modify for YOUR pet's life, body, environment etc as needed.

Dogs and cats can suffer from the same problems that humans do, such as overheating, dehydration and even sunburn. By taking some simple precautions, you can celebrate the season and keep your pets happy and healthy. 1. A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must; add to that a test for heartworm, if your dog isn't on year-round preventive medication. Do parasites bug your animal companions? Ask your doctor to recommend a safe, effective flea and tick control program. 2. Never leave your pet alone in a vehicle—hyperthermia can be fatal. Even with the windows open, a parked automobile can quickly become a furnace in no time. Parking in the shade offers little protection, as the sun shifts during the day. 3. Always carry a gallon thermos filled with cold, fresh water when traveling with your pet. Aunt Julie's note: I take a plastic container with a lid and fill it halfway with RO (reverse osmosis) water right from the RO spiget at my sink (or bottled water if that's what's handy). I freeze this and the day we're, say, going to the dog park or for a ride somewhere and Fox gets to come along, I take it out about a half an hour before we're leaving. I also bring a bottle of chilled water to use to add to the icy water as he drinks it. I don't drive, due to my bad back, and Fox and I are always in the back seat together and it's not difficult for me to open the plastic container and offer him laps of cold water when the car is stopped. Sometimes he refuses it so I just put it on my finger and once he licks, he's started. (They do that sometimes; also, a classic symptom of dehydration is not drinking/not being thirsty, so it's good to get them started.). If not go, and it's particularly hot, I just let him keep licking more and more off of my finger, if that's all he's into doing. I don't split hairs over "how I think it should be" and "why doesn't he just drink it?" blah blah. When we get home, I always rinse the container and its lid right out with hot water, rinse with more RO water and then refill halfway, close, and pop it back into the freezer. This way germs are cleansed (as opposed to frozen and preserved), and also I never am caught without this container of frozen water.  In a pinch, while on the road fast food places will often give (or sell -sigh) you a "cup of ice water for my dog". For whatever reason, Fox likes Wendys' water the best and always has, regardless of which Wendys it is. He laps it up readily, whereas he's more conservative with the others such as MacDonalds, Taco Bell, etc. But hey - all will do when he's overheating! 4. The right time for playtime is in the cool of the early morning or evening, but never after a meal or when the weather is humid. 5. Street smarts: When the temperature is very high, don’t let your dog standing on hot asphalt. I see people do this all the time, not noticing their dog is stepping their feet up up up or they're walking in circles or the like - ow! A dog's body can heat up quickly, and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum. Julie's note: This one's very real to me, as Fox has extremely heat-sensitive paw pads. It's easy to get caught up in other things such as removing things from the car, schlepping your stuff, whatever, and forget to look down and notice the signs. Above and beyond being cautious about this anyway, just figure if you've seen it once, it's always that way with their paws (even if they don't display it as much as other times). Also do NOT fall into the Your Viewpoint thing of, It's not that hot! You aren't the one going barefoot, your dog is. Sometimes when you get home and park it can be slightly overcast from a cloud cover. That doesn't mean the the ground isn't still burning hot (cement and asphalt hold heat).  Dogs can tell, often before they step down onto it. If they do venture out of the car and then give you a sign it's too hot, get them off of there! Pick them up right away if you have to! (if you can) Fox's signs include sitting right down then standing up, speeding up and walking in long arcs trying to get to some shady area,walking in circles and one of the last before I can get to him and grab him is walking erratically with straight up-and-down motions like his feet are stuck in glue. It's very fast, that is, he can start walking on hot pavement and he's displaying one or more of these before I can get to him and I react fast. Of course, I move slowly as my back's bad, but that's part of the reason I'm even more cautious about letting him venture out on hot cement in the first place. Sometimes my mom comes around and lifts him out of my arms from the back seat and carries him to the nearest shady spot, because we've got an assigned parking spot and he'll have to walk across the rest of the entire hot parking lot to get to the actual building, after we've parked. 6. A day at the beach is a no-no, unless you can guarantee a shaded spot and plenty of fresh water for your companion. Salty dogs should be rinsed off after a dip in the ocean. 7. Provide fresh water and plenty of shade for animals kept outdoors; a properly constructed doghouse serves best. Bring your dog or cat inside during the heat of the day to rest in a cool part of the house. sonme folks have fans, air conditioners, and the like. Safety first! with these types of appliances, but of course, when done right, this type of thing can be quite beneficial for "outdoor dogs". 8. Some animals will need extra care in hot weather, especially those who are elderly and overweight or have heart or lung disease. Certain breeds of dogs, including brachycephalic or snub-nosed dogs such as bulldogs, Pekingese, pugs, Boston terriers, Lhasa apsos and shih tzus, as well as those with heart or lung diseases, should be kept cool in air-conditioned rooms as much as possible. These breeds need extra attention on hot days. If your pet is showing signs of heatstroke or exhaustion, take him to your veterinarian immediately. 9. When walking your dog, steer clear of areas that you suspect have been sprayed with insecticides or other chemicals. And please be alert for coolant or other automotive fluid leaking from your vehicle. Animals are attracted to the sweet taste, and ingesting just a small amount can be fatal. Call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 if you suspect that your animal has been poisoned. 10. Good grooming can stave off summer skin problems, especially for dogs with heavy coats. Shaving the hair to a one-inch length—never down to the skin, please, which robs Rover of protection from the sun—helps prevent overheating. Cats should be brushed often. Bonus tip: Please make sure that there are no open, unscreened windows or doors in your home through which animals can fall or jump. Tell visitors and pet sitters and remind other family members.

Avoiding Canine Heatstroke With summer temperatures soaring, it's important to recognize the signs of heatstroke in dogs and take steps to prevent your furry friend from overheating. Provide plenty of fresh, clean water and a shaded area while your friend is outdoors, and consider sunscreen for lighter-nosed dogs. Avoid heavy exercise or play in the heat of the day. A dog's normal body temperature is between 101 and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Dogs keep cool naturally by panting. If your dog shows signs of rapid breathing, dry mouth and nose, a rapid heart rate, red or dull, grayish-pink gums, weakness, dizziness or vomiting, it's time to seek veterinary help immediately. While you're on the way, lower his temperature by wetting him thoroughly with cool water, and keep a fan on him if you can.

Also common in hot weather: - Animal toxins—toads, insects, spiders, snakes and scorpions - Blue-green algae in ponds - Citronella candles - Cocoa mulch - Compost piles and fertilizers - Flea products - Outdoor plants and plant bulbs - Swimming-pool treatment supplies

I got this email as is ~ Julie "Hi all--- this is a crosspost with permission (noted in the text). It was written for the performance dog, working under hot weather conditions in field, or ring. Nonetheless, it is simply good doggie first aid information everyone can keep close by! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ This is an article that I wrote a few years ago, checked it over it should still be pretty accurate. Feel free to cross post, use in club newsletters, etc, without any further permission. Avoiding Heat Related Injuries in Dogs Nate Baxter DVM The first thing that needs to be understood is that dogs and people are different enough that most of the info cannot cross lines. I do not profess to know what the appropriate procedures for people other than what I learned in first aid. Dogs do not lose enough electrolytes thru exercise to make a difference, but if the dog gets truly into heat stroke the physiology changes will make them necessary. BUT oral replacement at that point is futile, they need IV and lots of it. Cooling: Evaporative cooling is the most efficient means of cooling. However, in a muggy environment, the moisture will not evaporate so cooling does not happen well. I cool with the coldest water I can find and will use ice depending on the situation. The best way is to run water over the dog, so there is always fresh water in contact. When you immerse a dog in a tub, the water trapped in the hair coat will get warm next to the dog, and act as an insulator against the cool water and cooling stops. If you can run water over the dog and place it in front of a fan that is the best. Misting the dog with water will only help if you are in a dry environment or in front of a fan. Just getting the dog wet is not the point, you want the water to be cool itself, or to evaporate.For MOST situations all you will need to do is get the dog in a cooler environment, ie shade, or in the cab of the truck with the air conditioning on (driving around so the truck does not overheat and the AC is more efficient). Up to a couple of years ago, I was very concerned about my dogs getting too hot in the back of my black pickup with a black cap. New white truck fixed a lot of that problem. When I had one dog I just pulled the wire crate out of the car and put it in some shade and hopefully a breeze. But having 2 dogs and running from one stake to another, that was not feasible. So I built a platform to put the wire crates on, this raises the dog up in the truck box where the air flow is better. Then I placed a 3 speed box fan in front blowing on the dogs with a foot of space to allow better airflow. I purchased a power inverter that connects to the battery and allows the 3 speed fan to run from the truck power. It has an automatic feature that prevents it from draining the battery. When I turned that fan on medium I would find that the dogs where asleep, breathing slowly and appeared very relaxed and comfortable in a matter of 20 minutes or less, even on very hot muggy days. Alcohol: I do carry it for emergiencies. It is very effective at cooling due to the rapid evaporation. It should be used when other methods are not working. You should be on your way to the veterinarian before you get to this point. We recommend using rubbing alcohol, which is isopropyl alcohol, not ethyl, for those of you not aware. So do not try to drink it. Alcohol should be used on the pads and lower feet area where there is little more than skin and blood vessels over the bones. Use a little bit and let it evaporate, you can use too much as some is absorbed through the skin. There are concerns about toxicity, but you have to get the temperature down.UPDATE NOTE-alcohol has fallen out of favor with ER specialists, use it only as a last ditch effort if nothing else works. I purchased those cooling pads, but found that the dogs would not lay on them. I would hold them on the back of a dog that just worked to get a quick cool, but have not use them for years. I also bought a pair of battery operated fans but found them pretty useless. Spend your money on the power inverter and get a real fan. Watching temperature: If you feel your dog is in danger of heat injury, check its temp and write it down. Keep checking the temp every 3 minutes. I recommend to get a "rectal glass thermometer. The digital ones from the drug store I have found to be very unreliable, Don't forget to shake it down completely each time, sounds silly, but when are worried about your companion, things tend to get mixed up. This is VERY IMPORTANT**once the temp STARTS to drop, STOP ALL COOLING EFFORTS. The cooling process will continue even though you have stopped. If the temp starts at 106.5, and then next time it drops to 105.5, stop cooling the dog, dry it off, and continue monitoring. You will be amazed how it continues to go down. If you do not stop until the temp is 102, the temp will drop way too low. I cannot emphasis this point enough. When the dog is so heated that it is panting severely, only let it have a few laps of water. Water in the stomach does not cool the dog, you just need to keep the mouth wet so the panting is more effective. Do not worry about hydration until the temp has started down. A dog panting heavily taking in large amounts of water is a risk of bloat. Due to the heavy panting they will swallow air, mixed with a large amount of water they can bloat. Once the temp is going down and panting has slowed to more normal panting then allow water. The dog will rehydrate it self after temp is normal. If the dog has a serious problem and even though you have gotten the temp normal, get the dog to a vet, as it can still need IV fluids and some medication. Also, a case of heat stroke can induce a case of hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (not parvo), with a ton of very bloody diarrhea and a lot of fluid and electrolyte loss. These cases need aggressive treatment.The best method of treatment is prevention. Learn to watch your dog, and see the changes in the size of the tongue, and how quickly it goes down. Learn your dogs response to the different environments, and be careful when you head south for an early season hunt test or trial. I have been to Nashville at the end of May, only 5 hours away, but the difference in temp and humidity did effect the dogs as they were used to more spring weather in Ohio. Try different things in training to help the dog cool and learn what works better. Another very important point=> Do not swim your hot dog to cool it then put in put in a box/tight crate. Remember, evaporation can not take place in a tight space, and the box will turn into a sauna and you will cook your dog. Carry a stake out chain, and let the dog cool and dry before putting it up.I know this is a bit long, but hopefully this is easy to understand and helps provide some useful information.Remember: Prevention, learn your dog. It is worth the time and effort. Nate Baxter, DVM, Lebanon, OH"

COLD WEATHER PET TIPS Don't forget to modify for YOUR pet's life, body, environment etc as needed.

When the weather outside turns cold, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals reminds you to think about your pet's safety and recommends the following guidelines to protect your companion animal: Keep your cats inside. Outdoor cats can freeze, become lost or stolen, injured or killed. During the winter, outdoor cats sometimes choose to sleep under the hoods of cars, where it is warmer. Before starting your car, you should bang loudly on the hood and wait a few seconds to give the cat a chance to escape. Never let your dog off its leash on snow or ice, especially during a snowstorm. Dogs frequently lose their scent in snow and ice and can easily become lost. More dogs are lost in the winter than in any other season, so make sure they always wear ID tags. Products that melt ice may contain chemicals that can be irritating to skin and gastrointestinal tract, and could also result in more severe effects, including depression, weakness, disorientation, low blood pressure, cardiac problems, seizures, coma and death, depending on the type of ice melt and circumstances of exposure. Keep these products out of reach of your pet, and thoroughly wipe off your dog's legs, paws and stomach when it comes in out of the sleet, snow or ice to minimize the potential for skin irritation and to avoid ingestion of the chemicals. Like coolant, antifreeze, even in very tiny doses, is a lethal poison for dogs and cats. Unfortunately, because of its sweet taste, animals are attracted to it. Be sure to thoroughly clean up any spills from your vehicle. To prevent accidental poisoning, more and more people are using animal-friendly products that contain propylene glycol rather than traditional products that contain ethylene glycol. Call your veterinarian or The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (888-4ANI- HELP) if you suspect your animal has been poisoned. If you have a shorthaired breed, consider getting a warm coat or sweater with a high collar or turtleneck for your dog. Look for one that covers the dog from the base of its tail on top to its belly underneath. While this may seem like a luxury, it is a necessity for many. Don't shave your dog down to the skin in winter, as a longer coat will provide more warmth. When you bathe your dog in the colder months, be sure to completely dry him before taking him out for a walk. Does your dog spend a lot of time engaged in outdoor activities? Increase his supply of food, particularly protein, to keep him—and his fur—in tip-top shape. Never leave your dog or cat alone in a car in cold weather. A car can act as a refrigerator in the winter, holding in the cold. Your companion animal could freeze to death. If your dog is sensitive to the cold because of age, illness or breed , take the animal outdoors only long enough for it to relieve itself . Puppies do not tolerate cold as well as adult dogs and may be difficult to housebreak during the winter. If your dog spends a lot of time engaged in outdoor activities, increase its supply of food, particularly protein, to keep fur thick and healthy. Make sure your companion animal has a warm place to sleep, far away from drafts and off the floor. Consider a dog or cat bed or a basket with a warm blanket or pillow in it.

Also beware: - Ice melting products - Rat and mouse bait

HOLIDAY TIPS

These tips can apply to the winter Holidays, birthday parties, out-of-town visitors and the like. You'll see as you read along. They also apply to others' visiting pets as well as yours. Items, Points, Situations to consider, plan for or around, or otherwise take into account: Presents, bows, ribbons, gift wrapping Presents come in fascinating boxes, gift wrapping is irresistable...and tinsel and ribbon can twist in a pet's intestines. ornaments and tinsel (which can cause the intestines to bunch up and may even cut through the intestinal wall, both problems being potentially fatal). Be aware: I know my own cat can spot a little piece of ribbbon from across the room and get to it and be actively eating it within a matter of a minute or two. I've heard a verrrrrry slight hhhhck noise, wandered into the next room and found my cat gagging on some ribbon he found who-knows-where. Stick-on bows are recommended for packages! Real or fake plants, Halloween and Fall plants, Christmas trees; Decorations and party/Holiday accessories Decorative plants and greenery Real or fake Christmas trees (including its use by dogs to mark territory. Tether your Christmas tree to a wall or window frame in order to keep it stable in case a cat or other pet climbs up the tree. Safety starts with securing the Christmas tree so curious pets don't knock it down. Remember also the water under the Christmas tree (especially if you add any tree preservative). Thirsty pets may try out the water bowl under the tree. When you use tree-preserving chemicals or aspirin, your pet could be drinking poison. Cover this bowl and provide fresh water in other areas of the house. Also, pine sap from the tree can cause a health problem. Keep valuable ornaments and family heirlooms out of the reach of curious pets' mouths, noses and wagging tails. Knick-knacks should be on shelves that are inaccessible to animals. Decorate with your pet in mind by placing breakable ornaments at the top of the tree; resist the urge to use tinsel or use it high on the tree and out of reach of pets. Nimble cats can get on mantles and shelves, so place all fragile decorations out of pets' reach. Puffy fake snow Poinsettias, holly and mistletoe are wonderful holiday decorations but are poisonous to household pets. These plants can cause vomiting and diarrhea. You should call you veterinarian immediately if your pet eats them. Other plants to keep out of pets' reach are lilies and amaryllis. Popular Halloween plants such as pumpkins and decorative corn are considered to be relatively nontoxic, yet they can produce gastrointestinal upset should pets ingest them. Intestinal blockage could even occur if large pieces are consumed. Other real or fake plants Costumes (Halloween and other festivities; Christmas hats, reindeer ears, scarves, vests etc): If you do dress up your pet, make sure that the costume isn’t annoying or unsafe. It should not restrict the animal’s movement or hearing, or impede his ability to breathe or bark. Keep a look out for small, dangling or easily chewed-off pieces on the costume that your pet could choke on. Also, please don’t put your dog or cat in costume unless you know he or she enjoys this. Otherwise wearing a costume can cause undue stress. Electrical cords (extra ones added for the festivities as well as regular ones) Flashing or blinking lights Statuettes (Santa, Jesus, Nativity Scenes, Reindeer, Santa's sleigh with goodies in there, etc.) Look before you light your holiday candles and potpourri burners. Make sure they are out of the reach of your dog's tail or your curious cat (or a pet who might drink liquie potpourri). Keep lit candles away from pets. Hanukah Menorahs, Shabbus and other religious candles, tribute candles for military, Memorial Day and the like; etc. Look before you light your holiday candles, incence and potpourri burners. Make sure they are out of the reach of your dog's tail or your curious cat, and if they are electrical warmers, that the cords are not a temptation or simply in the way and tangle-friendly for pets. Treats and food, alcoholic and rich drinks (like egg nog). If you bring your pet to someone else's get-togethers and parties: Never forget that your friends and family do not necessarily know, understand or share in your own specific, peculiar or unique concerns about your pet's safety. Be alert for open, unscreened windows or doors in a home through which animals can fall or jump (including visitors deciding to leave sliding doors open, bathroom windows, etc). This includes when your friend is receiving more guests. If they are not pet owners, or just due to the fact that they do not live in your home and know "the ropes", they won't have that "third eye" watching for such ways for animals to get into mischief or trouble, or disappear altogether. Oh, and by the way, you're not being "overprotective", and your pet is not "spoiled". When visitors come to your house: Walk your dog before guests arrive. While this might seem obvious, often it is overlooked. A nice, long walk may sufficiently tire them out / relax them so that they will take a nap or generally be calmer when guests arrive, and can be helpful to them if they would otherwise get uncomfortable needing to piddle from excitement. The holidays often result in pets uncharacteristically toileting in the house. Excitement, excessive treats, inadvertent table scraps, and for dogs, distractions that result in forgetting to take the dog outside all contribute to the problem. Take the necessary steps to ensure your pet gets the proper attention. But, don't alter his normal food and avoid the urge to give him table scraps if this is not part of his normal diet. If they bring their pets Be as considerate as you would appreciate them to be with your pet. Remove treats off the ground and from areas your pet squirrels them away. If their dog is going to go for your pet's toys and may choke on them, stash them. Do all of this beforehand, and then after they arrive, ask the owner before introducing something for their pet. Put fresh water down, and then change it completely back (new or well-cleaned bowl) when their pet leaves. Secure your own pets' "safe places", cages for birds and reptiles, etc. Don't forget your pet's medicine schedules as applicable. If your pet gets upset by, say, another dog taking his toy, or the smell of another cat near his bed, respect your pet. Your mutual home is HIS space, too. The visiting pet won't know or care the difference if you do some steps to protect this or secure that whatever it is that your pet's worried about - but your pet will know if you don't. If your pets stay in the garage when visitors come (or go to the garage when you bring them to another's home) be alert for antifreeze on the floor and other substances within sniffing, ingesting or knocking over reach. Also remember outside temperatures can drop rapidly. Kids A pet's routine is drastically changed over the holidays at most households. They are creatures of habit. When guests and new excitement arrive during the holidays, it's typically a time the family dog might display uncharacteristic unruly or aggressive behavior. Also, kids your pet knows can get sugared out, up too late, etc and become wild and wooley themselves, which can frighten, electrify or "trigger" an otherwise docile animal. Be aware of potential problems -- you know your pets better than anyone -- and never leave a dog alone with small children. Other Horns, bells, whistles, fireworks and other noisemakers can terrify pets. Groups of holiday guests can cause pets to become overexcited, confused or frightened. If applicable in your household, make sure your pets are in a safe place away from such noises. Keep them in a quiet part of the house and ensure they have their bed or kennel in a safe area that allows them to retreat from children and other over-eager visitors. Make sure your guests know this safe area is off-limits. Certain festivity substances we take for granted are dangerous to pets, such as chocolate, any other rich holiday foods, alcohol (often mixed in with Holiday desserts and some recipes), potato latkes, Valentine's candy, poultry bones and skin, gooey substances on the floor, etc. Don't give your dog rich foods. During the holidays we want to share "goodies" with our dogs -- but the result can be no real treat for your dog. Unfortunately, these "treats" can trigger life-threatening illnesses in the intestines and pancreas of a dog. Pancreatitis is a nasty ailment and can be brought on quite easily with the "wrong" foods, and can kill a dog. I've seen it happen and dealt with the emotional aftermath and re-connecting pet and owner. Nice that I can do that...not nice that it a Passed Over Pet Consultation was suddenly needed. Beware also bread dough - see this write-up.  Don't forget drugs, prescriptions and medicines, if you're visiting and bringing your pet, if someone is bringing their inquisitive pet over to your place, and/or if you're, well, partying. Hate to tell you but as well as the health issues involved, pets don't like "getting stoned" as much as you might think they do. Take it from someone who's heard them when they're asked about it. They don't like it when you're stoned or high, either, in spite of any reactions they've had to your acting all cute and funny. You can also check my Chart of substances toxic to pets. If you know of any others, let me know! Fun! There are places to get Holiday pet treats, pet clothes and so on so they can feel included in the fun! Pet stores, catalogs, online, etc. Give your dog his gift when others get theirs, when applicable. With certain exceptions which may apply to your own life, of course, don't give pets as presents. The reasons and logic behind this statement are too long and obvious to list.

LAWN AND GARDEN / SPRINGTIME / PLANTING:  COCOA BEAN MULCH

As spring approaches, people will start to tend their lawns and gardens. Many will consider using cocoa bean mulch as a fertilizer. Made from spent cocoa beans used in chocolate production, cocoa bean mulch is organic, deters slugs and snails, and gives a garden an appealing chocolate smell. However, it also attracts dogs, who can easily be poisoned by eating the mulch. (from an internet newsletter) "Cocoa beans contain the stimulants caffeine and theobromine. Dogs are highly sensitive to these chemicals, called methylxanthines. In dogs, low doses of methylxanthine can cause mild gastrointestinal upset (vomiting, diarrhea, and/or abdominal pain); higher doses can cause rapid heart rate, muscle tremors, seizures, and death. Eaten by a 50-pound dog, about 2 ounces of cocoa bean mulch may cause gastrointestinal upset; about 4.5 ounces, increased heart rate; about 5.3 ounces, seizures; and over 9 ounces, death. (In contrast, a 50-pound dog can eat up to about 7.5 ounces of milk chocolate without gastrointestinal upset and up to about a pound of milk chocolate without increased heart rate.)" (NOTE that different texts and different vets have varying opinions about chocolate and dogs - well, pets, actually, but the rule of thumb is do NOT let them get their hands - er, paws - e,r jaws on it. With cats, one after-hours emergency vet clinic told me that one ounce per pound of body weight is the harmful amount. ~ Julie) See this article as well.

PETS GET SPRING ALLERGIES, TOO

04/01/2006 BREA, Calif. (UPI) -- Pollutants and allergens are at their peak in the spring and animals can experience allergy symptoms like humans, says a U.S. company that insures pets. Veterinary Pet Insurance, a health insurance provider for pets, says conditions like otitis externa, an ear infection, and atopic dermatitis, a skin rash due to inhaled allergens, are relatively common in dogs. VPI based its report on an analysis of claims data from 2005. The top allergy-related claim for canines was for otitis externa, which accounted for 14.2 percent of all claims submitted last year, while Atopic Dermatitis accounted for 14.1 percent of claims. Secondary pyoderma -- inflamed, infected skin -- accounted for 5.2 percent of all claims involving dogs. Cats suffer from fewer allergy conditions, the company said. Almost 5 percent of the claims for cats were for Atopic Dermatitis, while 4.7 were for otitis externa and 2.4 percent involved bronchitis or asthma.

FOURTH OF JULY, BBQ & SIMILAR OUTDOOR TIPS:

* Do not apply any sunscreen or insect repellent product to your pet that is not labeled specifically for use on animals. Ingestion of sunscreen products can result in drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst and lethargy. The misuse of insect repellent that contains DEET can lead to neurological problems.  * Always keep matches and lighter fluid out of your pets’ reach. Certain types of matches, for example, contain chlorates, which could potentially damage blood cells and result in difficulty breathing. * Keep your pets on their normal diet. Any change, even for one meal, can give them severe indigestion and diarrhea. And keep in mind that foods such as onions, chocolate, coffee, avocado, grapes & raisins, salt and yeast dough can all be potentially toxic to companion animals. * Loud, crowded fireworks displays are no fun for pets, so please resist the urge to take them to Independence Day festivities. Instead, keep your little guys safe from the noise in a quiet, sheltered and escape-proof area at home.

See also Testimonial Tidbits on my Home Page! All are REAL Statements from Clients!